Workout Wednesday. The Perfect Exercise Partner: Your Pooch!

By now, you've probably heard the statistics: 65-percent of Americans are overweight or obese, and those numbers are growing. And if you're reading this blog, you are probably aware that obesity in American pets is also becoming epidemic - an estimated 25-percent of American dogs are considered obese. Like humans, overweight dogs are more at risk for diabetes, joint problems, heart disease, and some cancers. So, if you find that your favorite jeans and your pup's favorite collar just don't fit the way they used to, there may be a solution close at hand.

Personally, I'm facing this very same issue myself. During my animal rescue internship, life was so crazy that - while I was moving a lot for long hours each day - my sleep patterns were interrupted, I wasn't watching what I ate, and I wasn't getting the kind of cardiovascular and total-body workouts I require to stay fit. So... fifty pounds later, it's time to go back to the drawing board. And my pups? Both Adia and Killian are in reasonably good shape because I make all of their food myself and I'm careful about their portions, however Adia could still stand to lose about five pounds. What do I propose to do to shed those excess pounds?

Exercise, exercise, exercise. And it turns out, walking the dog is a great way to enjoy the great outdoors and get back in shape. In the past two weeks, I've increased my daily half-hour dog-walk to two hour-long walks per day. Not only do I feel a whole lot better, but I've lost eight pounds already. And Killian and Adie are both looking more svelte and their energy levels - for better or worse - are soaring. Because they're getting adequate exercise, however, chewing issues and general rowdiness have both been curbed. So, here are three tips for shedding pooch-and-person pounds sensibly.

(1) Know your pup's limits. If your pooch is a senior, has joint or other health related issues, or is seriously overweight, make sure to check in with your vet before starting any vigorous exercise. Just like humans, dogs need to ease into a fitness regiment. Begin slowly - if you've only been walking once a day, up it to twice; once in the morning, once in the evening. Watch how your dog reacts after the fact... Does he have more trouble than usual getting up the stairs or onto the couch? Your dog should be tired after exercise, but not comatose.

(2) Keep your pup motivated. For couch-potato pooches, hitting the streets may not be a welcome notion. Even for overweight or obese dogs, it is okay to use food as a motivator - just beware of what type of food. Read tomorrow's Nutrition Beat post for tips on healthy, lean, and tasty treats that will get your pup moving. Make the walk fun by giving lots of praise and pets. Reprimands and leash-jerking should be kept to a minimum; just as you would a child, you want to convey to your pup that exercise is FUN!

(3) Use the right equipment. If your dog turns every walk into the Iditarod, pulling you down Main Street with no regard for your pleas to slow down, it's time to invest in a nose collar (Gentle Leaders and Haltis are the most commonly used). Avoid extendible leashes, as they make it difficult for you to control your pup, and can be a disaster if he gets some momentum before reaching the end of the leash. You might consider a group class or a one-on-one session with a trainer to get some hands-on experience with a professional, as well.

Finally, remember to be consistent and to have fun! Getting in shape shouldn't be a burden - with a little resolve and a furry friend by your side, every step of the way can be a pleasure. And the reward? Better health, a longer life, and a happier pup. Really, what more could you ask for?

Training Tuesday. Play Versus Stay: Making Training Fun

How can training be a fun experience for an under-exercised dog? That was the big question for me recently, and one I'll explore in this post. This past Sunday, the Knox County Humane Society - where I'm doing my obedience training practicum - was closed for cleaning, which meant I could work with as many dogs as I liked without running into volunteers or prospective adopters. The drawback? It also meant that none of these dogs had gotten a lick of exercise before I took them out to attempt teaching sits, stays, and other Fun and Exciting Lessons of the Day.

I began with a two-year-old beagle named Carson, who had absolutely no interest in doing anything but pacing, sniffing, and - naturally enough - eliminating. It only makes sense that kenneled dogs will have pent-up energy that must be released before they can focus on training. But what about our own pups, who hang by our side and snooze on the living room rug? How much exercise do they really need, before you can get to the down and dirty act of obedience training?

The answer depends, of course, on the type, condition, and age of your pooch. A six-month-old pit bull puppy should ideally have an opportunity to run, play fetch, and do a little quality (controlled) wrestling with his people before being expected to learn those boring tricks we humans like so much - things like heel, stay, and down. And since younger dogs are typically the ones with the most intensive training needs within the home, it falls on the human guardian to come up with a regiment that makes the transition from play time to class time seem natural and fun. So, what does that mean for you? Here are a couple of tips to make training more effective and less frustrating for both you and the pup.

(1) Pee first, learn later. Start your training time by getting elimination out of the way first. When you have a full bladder, you're not much of a math wizard, right? Well, the same is true for your pooch. Let him water the tulips and fertilize the daffodils before you attempt a focused training session.

(2) Play, play, play. When I'm walking my own dogs, I begin by taking them out back for potty, then a somewhat frenzied walk to the park where I can let them run and wrestle. While they're playing, we work on things like recall, fetch, stop, and sit - all of which can be done on the fly, with lots of treats and plenty of fun. Just because you're dog is playing doesn't mean learning stops; on the contrary, dogs are much more inclined to enjoy training and retain lessons when there's a game involved.

(3) Tired dogs make the best students. Once you've gotten that initial frenzy out and your pup's tongue is lolling near the pavement, you can work on issues that require a little more concentration. Heeling, extended sit- and down-stays, and recall with added distractions are all lessons that work best with a less stimulated dog. Keep them motivated with treats and lots of praise, and remember to keep that final phase of daily training relatively short for the best results.

Training your dog should never seem like work to the dog. Ideally, it shouldn't seem like work to you, either, but there will invariably be those cloudy days when you'd rather sit at home and watch the world go by. Your pooch, on the other hand, should not only perk up when the leash comes 'round, but should be excited about every aspect of training. If you can work with your pup's natural rhythms rather than fighting against his energy, curiosity, and enthusiasm, than you are well on your way to a well-trained, happy, and healthy canine companion.

5 Things to Look for in Online Dog Training Courses

While the economy continues to take a nosedive, the pet business just keeps booming, with the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association predicting sales topping 43 billion dollars in 2008. With all of this attention (and cash) spent on our four-legged friends, there are invariably a host of new businesses looking to cash in. One of these is the online university, specializing in (or at least offering) courses in obedience training. Since I’m actually a student at two of these online institutes (Animal Behavior College and the Companion Animal Sciences Institute), it made sense to me to offer a bit of advice on what to look for if you’re interested in enrolling in one of these programs.

(1) What is the institution’s training philosophy? In my opinion, positive training is an absolute must - I believe (or at least I hope) that you would be hard-pressed to find an organization using traditional training methods (corrections/punishment versus positive reinforcement) at this point in time, but I’m sure if you looked hard enough, you could probably find someone. Here are some promising buzzwords: positive training; positive reinforcement; rewards-based training; clicker training… The list goes on. Speak with an actual, live representative from the school to find out their philosophy, as well as their take on such hot topics as Cesar Millan, Breed Specific Legislation, and punishment versus reward in training.

(2) Is there a practicum or internship required? Dog training is not a hands-off career. While there’s definitely a lot of theory involved, the reality is that you need to have a very high comfort level performing the techniques being taught with a variety of dogs. The program through Animal Behavior College requires an “externship,” in which each student must work with an approved trainer either in group classes or in a shelter setting. In the shelter setting, the student must complete a minimum of 7 90-minute sessions with the trainer, as well as 18 hours of practice sessions working with shelter dogs, and 10 hours of volunteer time at the shelter. The group class module requires that you go through a class with your own dog, observe another class, and actively assist in still another class, in addition to the 10 hours volunteering at a local shelter. To be honest, I was initially a little arrogant about the whole process - after all, I was running a rescue at the time, and spent 24/7 with anywhere from ten to thirty dogs right in my own backyard. I had the whole thing wired, right?

Not by a long shot. I was fortunate enough to actually do both modules of the program, beginning by taking my pup Adie through a basic obedience class at Bella’s K-9 Academy in Elizabethtown, Kentucky. We were far from a flawless duo, and the experience of actually being a student was invaluable to the process of becoming an instructor. Then, when I came up to Maine to do the shelter module, I began working with Marie Finnegan and was once again very humbled to realize that, frankly, I don’t have a clue yet. And if it weren’t for the ABC requirement of hands-on time with both dogs and knowledgeable instructors, I still wouldn’t have a clue. In short: Make sure there’s a bare minimum of twenty hours working with a trained professional as part of the curriculum.

(3) How do students and instructors communicate with one another? The Companion Animal Sciences Institute, where I’m currently studying canine nutrition, has a yahoo group for both students and instructors. It’s a great tool to create a feeling of community in the otherwise somewhat solitary pursuit that is online learning. The instructors moderate the conversations, provide direction when there are questions, and are generally just a very positive, informed presence in the group. Animal Behavior College does not offer anything along those lines, and I have to admit that I think the program suffers as a result. The externship mentors I’ve worked with have been absolutely fabulous, but it would still be nice to be able to touch base with other students in the program to find out a little about their experiences, chat about philosophies, and even just plain network a little.

(4) What is the curriculum? This may seem like kind of a basic question, but while researching this topic, I was amazed at how many online training courses do not provide access to the curriculum before a prospective student signs up. Before enrolling in any course, you should be able to learn the following: Reading list (both recommended and required); faculty profiles; course structure and duration; exam requirements and how they are administered; and a breakdown of each topic you’ll be studying.

(5) What kind of credibility does the certification gain in dog training circles? The reality is that dog trainers are not legally required to have any type of certification or training before declaring themselves trainers. Most (though definitely not all) pet owners are now savvy enough to ask some questions, however, and so it will serve you well to have just as many training tools, classes, and certifications under your belt as possible. However, log on with some obedience training groups through yahoo or myspace and ask questions about the program you’re looking at. Have other trainers heard of the school? Do they know anyone who has completed the program? Don’t let someone else’s input be your final decision, but weigh it with the other factors I’ve listed here and you’ll likely make a great decision that will put you well on your way to becoming a quality dog trainer.

Workout Wednesday: Exercise and Your Senior Dog

Imagine this:
You've reached your 60th birthday - a little achy around the joints, that spring in your step perhaps a little less... sprung, but generally healthy and still in love with life. And suddenly, your family says to you: Now that you're old, we've got a special new food that you'll be living on until your final days, and - because you've gotten old and we don't want to tire you out - from now on, you can just hang out. Don't worry about long walks or running around or anything, because we've noticed you're having a hard time with that stuff, anyway. Just chill out, relax. Sleep the days away.

I don't know about you, but that's hardly the way I want to spend my final few years on earth. And yet, that's just what we do to our beloved senior pups on a regular basis. We notice that getting up is a little tougher, or he may lag behind on a walk, and - because we love him so very much - we decide to either cut the walk short, or just stop it altogether.

What we actually need to do for our senior pups is quite the opposite. Regular exercise has been proven to improve heart and brain function in canines, slow joint degeneration and the aging process, aid digestion, and regulate bowel function. For senior dogs, exercise can quite literally mean adding years to your best friend's life. Here, then, are five tips to ensure that your dog stays fit and happy by your side just as long as possible.

(1) Start by checking in with your veterinarian. Regular visits are critical to maintaining health for aging dogs, in order to detect or prevent life-threatening issues like cancer, heart disease, or even periodental disease. Working with your vet, you can determine the best nutritional regiment and supplements for your pup, as well as ask any questions you may have about creating the best exercise routine for your dog.

(2) Take it slow. With the exception of the dog who has spent his life sprinting by his guardian's side, it is typically best to avoid strenuous aerobic activity with your senior. Dogs will push far beyond their physical limits to please us; it's our job now to tell them when to quit. A regular walk of from ten minutes to half-an-hour twice a day is a great way to keep your senior limber, active, and interested in the world around him. Senior dogs have the added challenge of requiring more frequent bathroom breaks, so a short walk in the morning and another in the evening helps your pup get into a more bladder-friendly routine. Try to stay consistent, be patient, and watch your pup for any changes in behavior, increased stiffness, or shortness of breath. If any of these occur, consult your veterinarian for recommendations.

(3) Watch the weather. Cold, wet days exacerbate joint problems, while hot days increase the possibility of heatstroke. Whenever temps dip or soar, indoor activities like hide and seek, fetch, or tug of war may be best. For cooler weather, invest in a doggie jacket or sweater to ease joint pain.

(4) Swim it out. If you have an aging water hound on your hands, now is the time to focus on the healing power of the sea. Because swimming is a low-impact exercise, it's perfect for painful joints and arthritis, and is also a great way for overweight dogs to take off some pounds. However, it's still important to watch temps - warm spring and summer days are great, but avoid icy dips. Even on warm days, have a towel handy to dry your pooch before he becomes chilled.

(5) Listen to your pup. If you have a senior dog, chances are good that you've spent considerable time getting to know him; you can tell when he's dragging. if he's having a tough time getting up when sitting or lying down, it means there is probably some arthritis or other joint-related issues at work. Limit physical activity to shorter walks on a more frequent basis, and look for a quality canine supplement containing glucosamine and chondroitin. You may also invest in quality essential fatty acids like those found in cod liver, flaxseed, or salmon oils, or a quality pet product like Dream Coat.

In my experience, the senior years can be some of the most cherished you'll ever spend with your dog. Now is the time when you know each other well, discipline isn't as much of an issue, and you can relax and just enjoy life together. Be sure to include him in as much of your life as possible, and your aging pooch will truly learn to love retirement.

For additional information and some excellent articles and tips on senior dogs, you can check out The Senior Dog Project, or this article from petplace.com. Thanks for reading, and be sure to check out next Workout Wednesday, when we'll look at the benefits of turning your hyper-hound into a Working Dog.

Training Tuesday: The Almighty Sit

Now that you've spent the past week bonding with your pup, it's time to add some structure to your training sessions. If you have a dog who hasn't quite mastered sit, or is only a master when there are treats involved, this post will teach you how to make your pup a Sitting Fiend.

Unlike dancing, twirling, or standing on his hind legs, sitting is a natural position for your pooch. For this reason, it's a fairly simple thing to teach - once it's been taught, it's just a matter of repetition to make your dog's "sit" flawless. Begin by making sure you have plenty of training-sized treats (the size of a pea, or very slightly larger for big dogs). If your dog has never learned sit before, stand in front of him and show him your treat. If he jumps, turn away and wait for him to settle. Occasionally, dogs will automatically sit when they're confused - if that happens, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. If he's still standing looking baffled, say "Sit" and hold the treat just above his nose, then move the treat up and back, toward his tail. In order to keep his eye on the treat, he'll need to either sit or move. If he sits, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. Repeat the process five to ten times, until he is sitting as soon as you present the treat.

If your pooch is a dancer, - a pup who will spin around to visually track the treat rather than sit, even when sitting is the easier option - then you may need to be a little more hands-on. Never press down on your dog's backside - it can be very painful if there are undiagnosed hip issues, or it can simply make a skittish or dominant dog uncomfortable. Instead, hold the treat in front of his nose with one hand, while you reach behind the back knees and essentially sweep the legs to make the dog sit. As you are doing this, say "Sit" once, firmly; as soon as he is in the sitting position, give lots of praise and a treat. Try again without physically positioning your dog; after about five attempts, he should make the connection and begin sitting without your physical cues.

In order to reinforce the almighty "sit," give the command as frequently as possible. Whether you're out on a walk or lounging in your living room, take a moment out for a quick sit. Initially, it's best to have treats handy for this exercise; over the course of the next week, gradually wean your pup from the goodies by doing a three-sit session. On the first sit, give a treat; on the next two, mix it up a little by giving a treat only on the second or third try. In addition, make sure you always use the sit command before leashing or feeding your pup; he'll begin to associate sitting with all the best things in his life, and before long will readily sit when he sees something he wants.

Next week, we'll go over the sticky issue of teaching your pup to lie down - surprisingly, one of the most difficult commands to master. I'll also teach you some relaxation techniques and a new command to keep energized pups from driving you mad when you just want to spend a quiet evening at home. Until then, thanks for reading and drop a line with your questions.

EnvironMental Monday: Separation Anxiety and the World Around You

As I've mentioned in previous EnvironMental Monday posts, the goal of my EDEN philosophy is to create a tranquil home in which you and your canine companion are balanced, healthy, and happy together. This week, we'll talk ab out one of the most challenging behavioral issues animal guardians face: separation anxiety.

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety - a condition in which a dog separated from its guardian exhibits extreme behavior as a result of intense anxiety - may dig, chew, bark, break windows, or exhibit self-harming behaviors, all in a desperate attempt to reunite with the person or people they love.

In this post, I won't talk a lot about training techniques to modify or change this behavior - there are many great articles out there on just that topic, including this one by the Humane Society of the United States. What I will talk about here are ways that you can modify your environment to create a setting that eases your dog's anxiety. These ways include aromatherapy, white noise and sound therapy, and the creation of visual stimuli to help relax your panicked pooch. These tools should be used in conjunction with the many excellent techniques espoused by the aforementioned Humane Society article.

Dogs have a much more keen sense of smell than do humans; it follows, then, that dogs are much more sensitive to scents of any kind - good or bad. This makes your pooch a great candidate for aromatherapy. And, aromatherapy has the added benefit of soothing you and helping to establish that tranquil setting to which we aspire. To begin using aromatherapy as a viable way to modify your dog's separation anxiety, it's best to start by trying a few different essential oils while you are at home to observe the effect (if any) they have on your pup. Dr. Edward Bach, creator of Rescue Remedy, has an entire line of natural essences geared toward pets - during my internship, we used many of these essences regularly, with excellent results. These formulas are typically administered either internally or externally, directly on the canine. Results are impressive, and happen quickly - the drawback is most certainly the price. If you're interested in blending your own essential oils, this article from Dog First Aid 101 will give you all the information you'll need to do so inexpensively and with minimal effort.

Another avenue you may try with your pooch is having music on in the background while you are away. While this alone will not get rid of the separation anxiety entirely, studies have shown that dogs are more relaxed and are less prone to frequent pacing or listless behavior when classical music is playing. There are now a whole host of specialized CDs created just for pets - you can find them on Amazon, or simply pick up a few classical CDs in the discount bin (percussion has been shown to be less popular with the pups, and Bach was the hands-down favorite), or tune your radio to a local classical station. You can read more about the findings from this very interesting study here.

And finally, we have stimuli for the more visually oriented pups out there. If you have a dog who likes to watch TV with you, this may be just the thing: videos for your dog. You can try tuning to Animal Planet and just leaving it on the station for the day, but I have found that actually creating your own videos are more fun and get better results. If your pooch is prone to severe separation anxiety, keep the content of your video low-key... collect footage of your pup playing, of you and your family, or simply of you talking quietly to your favorite pooch. Rigorous play sessions or you speaking in a high-pitched, excited voice should be avoided - the last thing you want is to stir your already anxious canine to a frenzy. If you can fill a six-hour tape with a combination of some soothing Animal Planet or National Geographic specials interspersed with snippets featuring you and your pup, the day will go that much faster for your four-legged friend.

Don't forget to include lots of hard chew toys - treat-filled Kongs or Nylabones are great, and try to keep absences short as you begin the process of retraining your pup. Thanks, as ever, for reading, and drop a line with any questions.

Dogward Bound! The Doggie Diaper Bag - For Hounds on the Go

Did you know that even vaccinated dogs can contract and spread Parvovirus, the deadly virus responsible for killing hundreds of puppies each year? While your grown pooch may never actually get sick because he's been vaccinated, he may be putting others at risk with each step he takes. That's why whenever I'm traveling with my own pups - whether it's just around the block or it's a full-on cross-country trek - I make sure I have their "diaper bag." Unlike the ten-gallon sack your best friend is saddled with each time she wants to bring along her toddler, the doggie diaper bag is simple and unobtrusive, and yet very effective in keeping pups safe and happy.

The doggie diaper bag consists of just a few easy-to-find items. With the exception of a couple of things, I was able to find everything listed at the local All for a Dollar store for - you guessed it - a buck.

(1) The bag itself. I use a mini-backpack because it's easy to toss over my shoulder and forget about when I'm just taking the pups for a walk around the block. Similarly, I can pull over to the shoulder if I'm on a long trip, grab the backpack, and go. Just remember to keep the pack in a handy place wherever you go, and you'll no longer be scrambling for plastic bags, leashes, or supplies when critical moments present themselves. Prices range from $10 at Walgreens all the way up to $50 or $60 at trendier shops. My sister-in-law picked mine up for a dollar at a yard sale, so if cash is tight keep your eyes peeled for bargains.

(2) Plastic bags. For easy clean-up, bring along a good supply of plastic bags. There are special potty bags available at your local pet store, but I've found it more inexpensive to use the seemingly endless supply of plastic bags I'm given while out shopping.

(3) A small spray bottle filled with a 3:1 bleach/water solution. Parvo and other viruses can be killed with this simple, inexpensive solution. If you're walking your dog in a public place, take a little extra care and spray a light mist on the area where your pup just eliminated once the waste has been cleaned up. Parvo is passed through direct contact with contaminated fecal matter, so if for some reason your pup is carrying along a dormant form of the virus, this will help ensure that no one else is put at risk. Caution: I reserve this for public streets and rest areas; the solution can kill plants, grasses, and flowers, so if you're hiking the back trails of Yellowstone, hold off for the sake of the flora. Spray bottle and bleach both found at All for a Dollar.

(4) Pre-moistened towelettes. For messy moments, towelettes are a wonder. All for a Dollar.

(5) Napkins. You may never even open the package, but there are definitely times when these sorts of supplies come in handy. All for a Dollar.

(6) Collapsible water dish. If the walk unexpectedly turns into a hike, you'll be prepared. I prefer the Collaps-a-Bowl, $3.99 at Petco.

(7) A bottle of water. Particularly in warmer months, it's critical to keep your pooch (and yourself) hydrated. Whether for short or long walks, always have a bottle of water handy. Free from the tap, or $0.89 and up at your local mart.

(8) Dog treats. A necessity for every household - treats make the world go 'round. Make your own with all-natural recipes from bullwrinkle.com, or buy a bag or two to have handy. While I'm thrifty on a lot of counts, I've found that when it comes to foodstuffs, it pays not to scrimp. While dog treats can be found at the dollar store, I recommend a higher quality brand at a local pet shop. $3.00 and up at local shops, or make your own for the cost of the ingredients.

(9) Toys. When conditions are right, daily walks around the block may unexpectedly turn into all-morning play sessions for my guys. The weather's too nice, deadlines aren't quite so tight, or I just plain want to be outside. When these moments arrive, it's always nice to be prepared. I keep a couple of tennis balls in the diaper bag, and from there let the day fall as it may. Three tennis balls for a buck at All for a Dollar.

(10) ID and a recent photo of your pup(s). Bad things happen. Your pup may get loose and bolt, or - if you have a well-behaved or showy pedigreed pooch - may even be dog-napped when your back is turned. In either situation, by having all of the necessary items right there with you, you don't have to waste time running back to the house. Often in these kinds of situations, time is a critical factor... Within a minute of realizing your pup's MIA, you can be showing the photo to strangers in the area, and ideally can be reunited before the morning's out.

For a maximum of twenty dollars and a small time investment, you can assemble everything you need for a hike down the street or a day-long trek with your favorite walking compadres. Hang the assembled bag by the door so that you can just grab it and go when the opportunity arises, and it will make dog-walking a simpler, more efficient, and more enjoyable experience every time out. Thanks for reading, and be sure to check back next Dog-Gone Sunday when I'll review Mammoth Cave, Kentucky - a haven of hiking trails and gorgeous views that's - you guessed it - very dog-friendly.

Cinema Saturday: Kitten and Pup at Play

I chose this particular video because, unlike so many of the so-called "funny" dog videos out there, it's not contrived and it doesn't focus on unhealthy or hurtful tricks (toddlers being dragged around by a dog, over-rambunctious play ending in someone being hurt, etc.) Just two babies doing what they do best: playing.

Rescue Me! Friday: Rocket Ranger

Rocket Ranger (Ranger for short) launched herself into the world of Clean Slate Animal Rescue in no uncertain terms, one hot summer evening. While I was doing the dishes in the kitchen, I saw a shadowy furball bounce past the window - once, twice, and one more time. Naturally, I was unnerved - Clean Slate is out in the country, and I was new to the area. What kind of creature (Sasquatch? The Chupacabra?) could possibly be bouncing past my window at nearly midnight in rural Kentucky? The next moment my question was answered, because the creature in question managed to get a foothold in the windowsill and scrabbled inside.

And there before me was Rocket Ranger - the cutest little black pup you've ever seen. She wore a red collar so was clearly owned, and we estimated her age to be about six months at the time - that was about six months ago. Though signs were posted at the local animal shelter and the neighboring area, this sweet little girl was never claimed by her owners. At about one year, "Rocket Ranger" is an active, energized, cuddly little fur ball who weighs approximately thirty-five pounds. She loves other dogs, is very smart, and I believe would be an excellent candidate for agility training. She gets along well with everyone she meets, and would also make a good family dog for pup-savvy children. If you have a secure area (Ranger is definitely a little escape artist!) and are looking for an energized pup to keep up with your active lifestyle, Ranger is definitely the girl for you.

Though Ranger is currently in a rescue in Kentucky, please don't hesitate to express interest if you aren't living in Kentucky. Transports can be arranged, and - because the plight for homeless animals in the south is so dire - Clean Slate is doing everything it can to get these amazing guys and girls to a more rescue-friendly environment. The rescue is currently limiting adoption possibilities to the central and northeastern states, from Pennsylvania all the way up the coast to Maine.

Ranger will need continued obedience training to reach her full potential, and - because she has been living in a shelter situation for some time - will need a refresher on house-training and potty etiquette. If you're interested in this sweet girl, you can contact Clean Slate Animal Rescue directly at (270) 378-4736 or go to their website, www.cleanslateanimalrescue.com, or simply e-mail me at TheDog_Ma@yahoo.com for more information.

Thursday's Nutrition Beat: The Scoop on Supplements

If you've investigated or actually started feeding your dog a homemade diet, you know firsthand just how confusing the supplement issue can be. The bad news is that your pup's good health is dependent on a balanced diet and - if you're making your own food - that diet begins and ends with you. The good news, however, is very good: It's not actually as complicated as it might seem. And with the overwhelming interest in animal companion nutrition today, there are some great products out there that make it that much simpler. In this post, I'll profile a few of those products, and give you recipes for some that you can make on your own.

We'll start with essential fatty acids, the same ones that get a lot of hype for the health benefits they provide for you and I. EFAs - in this case Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids - aid in digestion, help prevent or clear up breakouts, and keep hair and nails strong. They do the same for pups. Cod liver and other fish oils, as well as soybean, flaxseed, and safflower oils, are particularly high in Omega-3 and -6 acids. The number one product that I always have on hand to ensure the proper blend of these critical elements is Dream Coat, distributed by HALO pet products. While Dream Coat is not cheap (a 16-ounce bottle is usually around $21), its blend of cold-pressed soybean, wheatgerm, safflower, sunflower, garlic, and cod liver oils provides not only the aforementioned fatty acids, but also provides your pup with adequate doses of vitamins A, D, and E - all critical for your dog's good health.

If you'd prefer to forego the expense of DreamCoat, HALO founder Andi Brown provides a homemade recipe for DreamCoat in her book, THE WHOLE PET DIET. Using cold-pressed, high-quality oils, the homemade version is still a little pricey, but is certainly worth the expense. Here, then, is Ms. Brown's "Recipe for a Beautiful Coat."

5 ounces soybean or olive oil
1 ounce cod liver oil
1 ounce wheat germ oil
1 ounce flaxseed oil
1 clove garlic, or 1 teaspoon garlic powder
2-inch sprig rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary

Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and pulse for 30 seconds. Pour into a dark or opaque glass bottle or jar and seal tightly. Mix the recommended dosage (listed below) into all of your pet's meals:

2 - 11 pound dog: 1/2 teaspoon
12 - 25 pounds: 1 teaspoon
25 - 50 pounds: 2 teaspoons
51 - 100 pounds: 1 tablespoon

The next supplement that I use is based on the recommendations of Dr. Richard H. Pitcairn in his COMPLETE GUIDE TO NATURAL HEALTH FOR DOGS AND CATS. Because dogs require a balanced intake of calcium and phosphorous in order to maintain optimum health, it is critical to include a mixture of these two supplements in each homemade meal. While there are natural pet vitamins out there with calcium and phosphorous included, based on the research I've done and the case studies I've conducted, I believe that the over-synthesized materials are simply not as conducive to total health. With that in mind, here are a few items that always make it into my recipes.

NOW Bone Meal Powder, available at most natural food stores or online at Natural Canine. A good, balanced source of calcium and phosphorous made from domestically raised cattle, and simple to add to recipes because of its powdered form. $13.95 for one pound, which should last you quite some time.

Herbal Multivitamin, formulated by Gregory Tilford. Available online at Natural Canine for $24.95 for a 300-gram container, which typically lasts about one month for my two dogs. I use a combination of the NOW Bone Meal Powder, Tilford's Herbal Multivitamin, and either Dream Coat or flax seed oil in all of my dog's meals. The recommended dosage is based on your pup's weight, and is included on the labels of each of these products.

For a less costly alternative to the Herbal Multivitamin, you can try NaturVet's VitaPet or VitaPet Plus for Dogs, available at most pet stores or online at Waggin Tails. NaturVet has a number of great, affordable products out there that I have used on more than one occasion with good results.

For recipes and more information on the nutritional needs of your favorite pooch, I highly recommend DR. PITCAIRN'S COMPLETE GUIDE TO NATURAL HEALTH FOR DOGS & CATS, as well as Andi Brown's THE WHOLE PET DIET: EIGHT WEEKS TO GREAT HEALTH FOR DOGS AND CATS and, if you're feeling really ambitious, CANINE AND FELINE NUTRITION: A RESOURCE FOR COMPANION ANIMAL PROFESSIONALS. All of these books are available at Amazon.com, or can likely be ordered through your local independent bookseller. Next week, I'll get you started on a fun, low-maintenance kitchen herb garden that will keep your pup's recipes tasting fresh all year round. Until then, be sure to drop any questions you have my way, and thanks for reading.

Workout Wednesday: Three Super-Charged Exercise Ideas for High-Energy Pups

We've all seen them - the Jack Russell who springs five feet in the air every twenty seconds or so, or the border collie yipping wildly while she tries to round up the neighborhood kids, or the pit bull pulling his owner down the street in a desperate attempt to get to the next great smell. You may even be the proud owner of just such a dog yourself. If you are, you have probably wondered at least once, "Is there nothing that will tire this dog out?" Take heart, because the answer is yes - and I'll give you a few ideas of how in this post.

Dogs like terriers, border collies, some hounds, and many of the dogs known as "working" dogs, were bred to keep going and going and going and... Well, you get the picture. Terriers were designed to be hunters - to track and kill rodents all the livelong day, and to be happy doing just that. Herding dogs have the instinct to move - to keep things tidy, make sure everything is running smoothly and everyone is where they ought to be. When you put these types of dogs in a setting where they are not physically and mentally challenged, something's bound to give. You're likely to see excessive chewing, barking, digging, even obsessive-compulsive behaviors... When all else fails, that energy may be turned inward and manifest as depression and self-destructive behaviors like tail chasing or chewing, or even obsessive nail biting.

So, to prevent all of that and not actually spend hours exercising to keep your high-energy pooch sane, what do you do? A long walk is a great start, but dogs like these also need to run. To complicate things further, working dogs are highly intelligent - they were bred to perform a job, not just sit around and look pretty. What you want to do is engage not just the body, but the mind as well. Here are a few ways you can do both, and enhance the bond between you and your dog to boot.

(1) Fetch. It's not a new game, but there's a reason it's one of the most enduring sports for pups and their people. It keeps you and your dog connected, provides a structured outlet for your dog's energy, and re-enforces recall. So what happens if your dog has no interest in the game? There are usually a couple of scenarios that result when fetch is introduced: either your dog has no interest in the object being thrown, or is psyched about the object but has no interest in bringing it back to you. Either way, it is possible for your dog - particularly your high-energy dog - to become a world-class fetching champion. Here's how to get him interested.

For the dog who just doesn't care what you're throwing, start at home by incorporating the object into life around the house. If it's a tennis ball, for example, toss it to your pup while you're watching TV some night. Give ample praise and get genuinely excited when he shows any interest whatsoever. You can also up the ante by giving him a little treat each time he keeps the ball in his mouth for more than a second or two. The key to all of this is that fetch is a game - be animated. Your dog will respond to your enthusiasm, and, after a few days of associating treats with the tennis ball, he'll start to get genuinely excited every time the ball makes an appearance. Once that happens, it's time to venture into the great outdoors. Ideally, you'll have an adequate space for your dog to run - it doesn't have to be huge, simply secure. The great thing about fetch is that it requires very little space but still uses up a remarkable amount of energy.

Now that your dog is nuts about the tennis ball, you may encounter the second problem: he'll fetch the ball, but he won't bring it to you. This, once again, is where treats come in. Some trainers have mixed feelings on the wisdom of using treats as motivators, but I have found that they are, without question, the most reliable way to positively re-enforce any desired behavior. Over time, the treats will no longer be needed - to begin, though, use a pea-sized treat and show your pooch once he has the ball in his mouth and is about to either run off with it or settle down to destroy it. If he keeps the ball in his mouth and comes to you, give lots of praise, along with two or three treats. It's more likely that he will drop the ball and come to you - in that case, don't give any treats. Instead, go to the ball and pick it up; put it in the dog's mouth. Very quickly - before he has time to drop the ball in favor of the treats he now knows you have - take the ball from him and give a treat, with an enthusiastic "Good boy." Try again, and provide verbal praise for every step your dog takes toward you with the ball in his mouth - even if it's only two steps before he drops it. Before long, he'll understand what you're after and you can phase out treats, as the game itself will be reward enough.

(2) Search and rescue. This is a particularly good game for hounds, as they truly do "see" the world through their noses. With their muzzles to the ground ninety percent of the time, these pups are all about the hunt. Whether or not your high-energy pup is a hound, however, this is a great game to pass a rainy afternoon inside or, even better, to spice things up in the yard. Simply get five to ten natural dog biscuits and plant them in different places around the house. Lead your pup to the first couple of hiding places, bringing him within a foot or two of the treat - his nose will do the rest. Soon, he'll be busy foraging through the house for the rest of his treats, tail wagging. A word of caution: When you're "planting" your items, never bury them so well that you're dog will be tempted to dig or chew through your things to find them. This is especially true outside - hounds have powerful noses, and if you bury the treat a couple of inches down, he will dig up the entire yard to find his treasure. Put treats inside boxes to increase the challenge, or inside one of his favorite stuffed animals. Be creative, and - just like with fetch - remember to have fun!

(3) Doggie play groups. My first dog, Moonshadow, was a solo dog - she was a big, alpha female who loved other male dogs, but was very intimidating around females. For that reason, and because I was not yet well-versed in canine behavior myself, Moon ended up living a fairly solitary existence. When I interned at Clean Slate Animal Rescue, I had an opportunity to see firsthand just what a tragedy that was for Moon. Dogs are very social creatures. At the rescue, I ran "play groups" with anywhere from five to fifteen dogs. The play was often rough and there were certainly some encounters that were not the ideal, but for the most part I was able to watch these animals interact the way that they would in the wild. They sorted out the group dynamic, played, wrestled, and left the group at the end of their hour utterly exhausted.

It's unlikely that you have access to a fifteen-dog play group, and that's probably for the best. However, if you have friends or neighbors who have dogs, it's worth the time and effort to organize "play dates." When first introducing new dogs, make sure to go to neutral territory - a park, beach, or any area your dog has not "claimed" as his own. Be relaxed - remember that you have control over the situation, and can always cut the session short if things don't go well. There may be some posturing initially, but the dogs will in all likelihood work out the issue of hierarchy themselves. If your dog does not have a lot of experience with other pooches, it's a good idea to choose a dog of the opposite sex that you know is relatively submissive. The younger you can start socializing your dog to others, the better - my pups Adie and Killian grew up with no less than ten other dogs around them at all times, for the first nine months of their lives. Today, Killian - an eighty-pound male - flops over and shows his belly to even the tiniest of dogs at the slightest sign of dominance.

You should note that there are dogs who will inherently have trouble with others. If you own a pit bull terrier or "bully" breed (American Staffordshire Terriers, bull terriers, etc.) then you should exercise caution before introducing them to other pups. I had the opportunity to work with many bully breeds at Clean Slate, and personally found them to be, without exception, the sweetest, most devoted breeds out there, however you must recognize the limitations - the fact is, these dogs were bred specifically to be aggressive toward other dogs. Work with your dog one-on-one to ensure that his recall is at its best, and make sure that you know the potential play-pal well. Again, it's wise to choose a dog of the opposite sex that is moderately submissive and no less than half the size of your dog. Bullies are strong and they love to play rough!

In addition to the three ideas listed above, you may want to consider "rally" classes for your high-energy dog. An obedience class is a great idea for every dog, in my opinion, but rally classes - in which obedience training is taught experientially through a series of activities and actions - are great for high-energy dogs who love a challenge. Agility training is also an excellent option for these types of dogs; as agility sports gain in popularity, it is becoming increasingly accessible to more rural areas of the country. Check out The Dog Agility Page for instruction, links, and ideas on how to get your dog involved in this rewarding activity.

There's no question that keeping your high-energy pooch pooped is hard work. But, with a little time and creativity on your part, it is definitely an attainable goal - and will not only work wonders for your dog, but has the added bonus of keeping you fit, active, and involved. Stay tuned next Wednesday when we look at the other end of the spectrum - Exercise and the under active dog, focusing specifically on older dogs and those facing hip dysplasia and other joint-related disorders. Until then, be sure to send any questions or comments to thedog_ma@yahoo.com, and thanks for reading.

Training Tuesday: How to Create a Bond That Will Last

The role of leader - or "pack leader" as some dog professionals like to call it - is a tricky concept for many. There is a somewhat ill-conceived theory out there that, for dogs, might equals right - you have to win your dog's respect (and love) by dominating him. While this may work in the wild, the reality is that by following this line of reasoning in your own home, you are setting a very dangerous precedent. Within the structure of the "pack," wild dogs are always on the lookout for an opportunity to assume the role the of pack leader. The current leader falls ill or is a little off in any way, and the next in line is immediately prepared to take over. Naturally, the last thing we want in our own lives is a pooch looking for signs of weakness so that he can stage a mini-revolt. In that scenario, the thing keeping your dog in line is not respect, but fear of retribution.

Now, make no mistake - you have the responsibility of assuming the leadership role. Dogs, like children, need (and want) someone to be in control; if you aren't, then they'll assume that role by default. But assuming that leadership by force is not only counterproductive, but is often downright dangerous. Moves like alpha downs (forcing a dog to lie down while the owner physically pins him, thus "proving" dominance), physical corrections, shock or prong collars... These things do not teach your dog the correct behavior - they teach him to be afraid of the wrong behavior and, more importantly, of you. Such methods breed resentment, and, if your dog does not strike out at you directly, he will in all likelihood either be fearful of humans, or actively aggressive toward them.

So, how do you establish the leadership role with your dog? For the next week, that's all you will work on - whether your dog is an old friend who's been with you for years, or is brand new to your home. It's an exercise that requires no training, but will require some vigilance on your part. At times, you may feel as though you're being too strict - don't worry, you can go back to the old ways (with some exciting new changes!) when the week is over.

Begin your week by stocking up on plenty of high-value treats: cheese or lean meats (if using sandwich meats, be sure to choose those with low sodium), cut into pea-sized pieces. I've also found that many dogs will respond to sliced apples, and homemade biscuits are invariably a big hit. Visit bullwrinkle.com for some super, all-natural recipes.

So... You have your treats. Here are the four things you need to do this week to establish (or strengthen) the foundation upon which to build a great training relationship:

(1) All food this week comes from you. If you have children, it's a great idea to repeat this exercise with them at some point, ensuring that every scrap of food your pup gets comes from your little ones. In the wild, great respect is given to those who provide sustenance. For now, though, you are the one setting every meal in front of your pup, and the one tossing him every treat. When feeding a meal, it's a good idea to first make your dog sit - even if just for a moment - before presenting the bowl and letting him chow down.

(2) When you're hanging with your dog, whether at the park, a walk, or just watching TV, make sure you have treats handy. Say your pup's name; the instant he or she looks at you, respond with "Good boy/girl" and toss a treat. What we're after here is the ability for you to always get your dog's attention - this week, you want to be your dog's universe. Before he does anything, he should look to you. Positive re-enforcement (and lots and lots of treats) are the way to make that happen.

(3) Every time you and your dog go through a doorway, you need to be in front. Whether you're going for your daily walk or are simply going from the kitchen to the living room, you should always be first. If he does manage to get through first, call him back (use a leash if necessary, even inside the house) and try again. This may seem silly or overly militant, but you are quite literally playing "follow the leader" with your pooch - and your pooch will get that.

(4) This step may be the tough part - just remind yourself: it's only for a week. Are you ready for this one? Your pup can't sleep with you. Dogs often assume "ownership" of the bed; it's where you are at your most vulnerable, and this is where your pup gets the opportunity to be in charge. Many people find that their dog is most possessive of them when they are in bed, so we'll diffuse that situation this week. If your dog is used to sleeping with you, set up a comfy dog bed beside your own. If he gets on your bed, say "No" firmly and tell him to get off (do not use "down," as this is the command typically given for lie down). If he won't get off the bed, physically remove him - gently, but firmly. Don't argue with him, simply make it happen. It's not a negotiation, it just is the way it needs to be. You may need to go through this a few times for the first couple of nights - don't back down, and don't feel guilty. I promise, you aren't hurting your dog's feelings, you aren't damaging him irreparably. You are setting the stage for great things. After the first couple of nights, your pooch will get the hint, and will likely only try to get on the bed occasionally. Each time, repeat the process and praise him when he gets on his own bed.

Follow these simple steps over the next week, and you'll be amazed at the progress you make. When the week is over, there are a few things you may want to keep in place: Continue having your pup sit for you before presenting his meal, and keep re-enforcing your leadership by only allowing him on the bed (or furniture) when he is invited. Remember to provide lots of encouragement, including treats, pets, and verbal praise, as this may be a confusing time for your pooch at first. But in the end it will be worth it, and you'll be more than ready to begin training next Tuesday, when we'll go over "sit" and "sit-stay," and talk about ways to keep your dog (and you) motivated when training gets a little stale. Until then, drop a line with your questions and thanks for reading!

EnvironMental Monday: Putting an End to Unwanted Chewing

I got my first dog as an adult when I was twenty-three. Moonshadow, as I soon named her, was six months old at the time - already lean, lanky, and full of life. Over time, she became one of those dogs people remember for years afterward: sweet, mellow, and fun-loving. For the first six months of our time together, however, our relationship was hardly ideal. In fact, there were many days when I genuinely debated sending my sweet Moon right back to the shelter where she'd come from.

The major issue? Chewing, hands down.

Before you can set up your personal paradise, in which you and your dog and your family and friends all peacefully cohabitate, there may be some obstacles. One of those obstacles is most definitely chewing. It's hard to make your place the ideal when you have no books lower than the fourth shelf on your bookcase, and all of your plants have to be suspended from the ceiling. Is it possible to have a great house and still have dogs? Absolutely. But it does take some work.

There are three common reasons dogs chew your stuff: Lack of exercise, separation anxiety, or - particularly in the case of teething puppies - simply because it feels good. In my girl Moon's case, it was a combination of all three things; I solved the problem by hiring a neighbor to come in during the afternoon to walk her, thus breaking up the day. In addition, we did a more rigorous walk in the mornings, and I set her up on the porch while I was at work, with all sorts of things that she was allowed to chew up and nothing that she wasn't.

The first thing you should do is determine which of these three issues is most likely to blame for your dog's chewing issues. If it's a lack of exercise, you need to prepare yourself for a harsh reality - dogs need to move. High energy dogs like terriers, especially young ones, may need a couple of long walks a day and a rigorous play session besides, while larger dogs or less active breeds may do just fine with a single long walk each day. Check out this Wednesday's blog for some ideas on how to make sure your pup is getting the exercise he or she needs, without either of you overdoing it. In the meantime, though, simply make a mental note as to whether your dog's chewing problems are related to exercise or some other problem.

Now that you've determined the root of your dog's problems, it's time to go about solving the issue. The first thing you need to know: You won't stop a dog who loves to chew, from chewing. So rather than trying to stop them from a natural behavior that is instantly gratifying, you need to find something that they love to chew more than your favorite shoes. There are a lot of alternatives out there. Those I have had the most success with are Kong toys stuffed with cheese or frozen peanut butter, marrow bones, and assorted stuffed toys. Provide a few alternatives, and give plenty of praise every time your pooch shows the slightest bit of interest in them.

The second thing you need to do is set your dog up for success. This means that, at least initially, you'll have to do a little puppy-proofing - they should have zero access to whatever you don't want eaten. If your dog is used to being crated, that's an easy solution. If he's not, you'll need to set up a space that's distinctly dog-friendly whenever you're out of sight. Provide plenty of chewy toys, lots of encouragement, and keep a close eye out whenever your pup is back in the great wide open.

Remember in all of this that accidents will invariably happen. If you find a shoe that's been chewed and your dog is nowhere in sight, don't bother any kind of reprimand. Dogs live in the moment - if you come up to them with shoe in hand and tell them they're a bad, bad dog, they will associate whatever they are doing in that instant with the reprimand. They will not, however, have the slightest idea why you're yelling at them and waving your shoe around. If you actually come upon your dog while chewing your shoe, go to them, gently remove the shoe, and then provide a firm "No. Bad dog." Screaming and, particularly, physically reprimanding your dog are counter-productive to training of any kind. Immediately after reprimanding your pooch, provide him with an acceptable chewing alternative and give lots of praise.

Try this approach, along with a longer, more rigorous walk in the morning before work, and you'll be amazed at how many shoes you're able to save. If you do find no change in the behavior, then you just may be looking at a pup with some severe separation anxiety. If that's the case, read next EnvironMental Monday's post, when I address the issue of canine separation anxiety and provide a few tips for dealing with the issue. As always, drop a line if you have any questions, and thanks for reading.

Dogward Bound! Safe Travel Tips for You and Your Dog

In March of '07, my foster partner and I packed up all of our belongings and traveled nearly 2500 miles - from Estacada, Oregon, to Columbia, Kentucky - in an old transit bus we found on Craigslist. While this in and of itself wasn't all that extraordinary, the rest of the cargo was; in Oregon, I interned with an animal rescue that was host to cats, dogs, goats, chickens, and other assorted furred and feathered creatures both large and small. Sixty-five creatures, to be exact. We spent weeks preparing for the trek, doing our best to minimize the trauma of the move by ensuring that we had the best accommodations, food, and entertainment possible for our budget. When we finally hit the road, we were pleased to realize that all of our planning had served us well: we arrived in Kentucky without incident, and our furry friends were soon comfortable in their new home.

Here are a few of the things we learned along the way:

(1) Don't overfeed. You'll have less mess to clean up along the way, and your pooch will thank you for making the travel time that much more comfortable without a full belly. A good rule of thumb is to give about one-third the usual amount of food, sticking with a pre-made kibble you can make yourself in advance, to avoid messy spills or the need for refrigeration. See the recipe at the end of this post.
(2) Remember cleaning supplies. Even the most travel-savvy pups may feel queasy during a long journey; stay tuned for next Sunday's Dog-Gone! post to get instructions on how to make your own Pet Travel Kit. It's inexpensive, and will do wonders in reducing your stress on the road.
(3) Make sure all vaccinations are up-to-date. With hundreds of strange animals passing through, rest stops are a haven for diseases like parvovirus, distemper, and the flu. If your pups are too young for vaccinations, it's best not to risk it by letting them set foot on foreign soil. You're better off cleaning up a messy crate than seeing your little ones suffer the effects of a deadly virus picked up on the road.
(4) Provide proper containment. Even if your pup loves the feel of the highway, bring along a crate for emergencies. If the car breaks down or there's an accident, your guy will be safely confined while you sort out the mess.
(5) Microchip, microchip, microchip. Particularly when traveling through a strange place, your pooch may become panicked and bolt at a rest area or gas station. Microchipping significantly increases the chances that your pup pal will be returned to you no matter how far you are from home.

Follow these tips and you'll have a great start to a happy life on the road with your favorite canine compadre.

One for the Road: Homemade Kibble to Make Things Simple

4 cups whole wheat flour
1 1/3 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup shelled, unsalted sunflower seeds
4 table spoons Dream Coat (may substitute corn oil)
1 cup chicken broth
4 eggs
1 cup low-fat milk

Heat oven to 350 degrees. In large bowl, mix together flour, cornmeal, and sunflower seeds. Add oil, broth, and egg mixture, until dough is firm-textured. Let sit for fifteen to twenty minutes, then roll out on a large baking sheet to about 1/4" thick. Bake for approximately half an hour, until golden brown. Remove and cool. Once cooled, it should be the texture of a hard-baked cookie; use a hammer to break into kibble-sized pieces, and store in an airtight container.

If your dog is used to beef marrow bones, it's great to bring one along with you while traveling - they provide much-needed calcium, and will keep your favorite pup occupied for hours.

Cinema Saturday

Thursday's Nutrition Beat: Food for Life

Proper nutrition is the fourth, and arguably the most important, element necessary for a healthy home for you and your dog. It is also the element that requires the greatest investment from you - both in terms of time and of money. In a series of posts over the coming weeks, I'll do my best to provide simple, affordable tips for creating nourishing meals for your animal companion, but I would be lying if I said it will always be a snap. Just stick with it, and soon you'll begin to see the rewards - a healthier, happier dog who requires less veterinary care and has fewer behavioral issues. It's all in what you eat. A word of caution: In this blog, I won't spend a lot of time discussing commercial pet foods, because I have yet to find one that is superior to what I can prepare in my own kitchen, for a fraction of the cost to my wallet, my conscience, and the planet itself. We'll discuss raw food diets, vegetarianism and your dog, nutritional needs... And I naturally welcome questions about anything relating to nutrition, but I simply don't have a lot to say about commercial pet food in most instances.

In the past year, the pet food industry has been in the headlines as a result of tainted food that's caused illness and death to thousands of pets across the country. An increasing number of people are becoming aware of the industry's questionable practices and lack of safeguards. Consequently, there has been a significant increase in the number of foods claiming to be balanced or all natural; there are literally thousands of blogs devoted to pet nutrition and home cooking for your pets, and the popularity of the raw food diet has grown exponentially. With this increase in interest comes an increase an information, which, inevitably, also means an increase in misinformation. How do you sort through all of the conflicting reports, the shocking details of abuse in the industry, the number of supplements required? What do you do, when the whole nation is talking about a subject, and it seems that everyone is saying something different?

It's not an easy answer, but it starts by doing your homework. Before you read anything else - and there are hundreds of books out there on the subject - I would recommend Dr. Pitcairn's New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats. It's available through Amazon for less than $13, and is worth every penny and more. Dr. Pitcairn was the pioneer when it comes to the link between health and animal nutrition, and this book covers every topic you'll need to get started - the true nutritional needs of your pet, what to buy and where to get it, the most cost-effective way to prepare a wholesome diet... This is where to begin. If you have other questions after the fact, there are plenty of places to turn; until that time, though, build your foundation with quality materials. This Guide is unquestionably the place to start.

Once you've memorized Dr. Pitcairn's work, head back here each Thursday for more articles, tips, stories, and recipes on nutrition and your favorite pup. We'll begin next week with an overview of the nutritional needs of your dog, so that you can ensure that all of his health needs are being met. The following week I'll provide a shopping list, pricing out what you should have on hand to make meal preparation quick and easy. We'll talk about the things you need to watch out for when preparing home cooked meals, how to work with your veterinarian if your pup has special needs, and how to track your dog's progress as you continue along this path to total health. We'll even look at ways to start eating more conscientiously yourself, following Fido's fine example! I look forward to having a dialogue with readers about the countless topics relating to nutrition and total health, so don't hesitate to drop a line with questions or comments. And, as always, thanks for reading.

Workout Wednesday: Exercise - The Great Equalizer

If you've ever had any behavioral issues with your dog and consulted a professional trainer about them, you were probably asked one question first: How much exercise is he getting? Whether you're facing excessive chewing, barking, digging, jumping up, even aggression... the first, second, and last answer is often more exercise.
Not so long ago, dogs were wild animals. They traveled for miles on end, hour after hour, searching for food. They hunted, they fought, they played, they mated - all of which requires a remarkable amount of energy. Needless to say, times have changed. Dogs, however - at least physically speaking - have not, to any great degree. Specially "designed" breeds may be less inclined to roam, but for the most part, dogs are still animals who require a significant amount of physical exercise to not only stay healthy, but to stay emotionally and mentally balanced. How much exercise does your dog get? Does she have an opportunity to play with other dogs? How often do you get in the mix and actually exercise - whether walking or running - with your dog?
Exercise is not only great for the pup, but we all know how essential it is for people. If you've been looking for a way to shed a few excess pounds but haven't found a fitness partner, look no further than that fuzzy lump by your bed. She'll be more than happy to roust you every morning and get you pumped for the rest of the day.
Wednesdays at The Dog-Ma will be devoted to exercise: How much is needed, how much is too much, what type is best, and how do you achieve the optimum level of fitness for your canine companion? To prepare for your new, active lifestyle - or to simply enhance what you've already mastered - take the next week to take stock of how much exercise your pooch is actually getting. How often do you go for walks, and how long do they last? Is your dog panting by the time you head for home, or ready for more? When you get the leash out, does your pup beat you to the door or do you have to pry him off the couch?
Exercising with your dog is an excellent way to strengthen the bond between you and enhance both of your levels of fitness. It is the most likely answer to most behavioral issues, and - best of all - it doesn't cost a thing! So saddle up in the coming weeks to learn how best to get you and your canine companion in the best shape of your lives, one four-footed step at a time.
Thanks for reading, and, as always, drop a line with any questions or comments, to TheDog_Ma@yahoo.com.

Training Tuesday: Discipline, Your Dog, and Your Role as Leader

The word "discipline" has gotten a bad rep in recent years, conjuring images of militant nuns or angry drill sergeants. However, discipline is also defined as an "activity, exercise, or regimen that develops or improves a skill," and "to bring to a state of order and obedience by training and control." When I talk about discipline, I'm talking not about punishment, but about creating order in your life through the consistent application of a particular method or practice. If you don't want your dog on the couch today, your dog shouldn't ever be on the couch. If you don't want your dog to beg for table scraps, then you should never be giving your pooch food while you are sitting at the table. Being a dog owner naturally requires a certain level of responsibility, but being a GOOD dog owner requires a willingness to assume the leadership role with confidence, clarity, and compassion. An over-emphasis on control with your dog can lead to behavioral problems, health issues, or may just plain milk the fun out of your relationship... But, a healthy attitude toward training and discipline often means the difference between a good dog and a great one.

So, how do you get started in this exciting new role as leader? In the coming weeks, I'll devote each Tuesday to a different topic related to discipline and your dog, including different aspects of obedience training, behavior modification, the fallacies of dominance theory, and whether or not you actually can teach an old dog new tricks (you can!). For now, though, do a quick analysis of a few aspects of your life with your pup. How often do you take her for a walk? Are you the one in control of the leash, or is she? Your job in the coming week is to determine the areas in which your dog (and you) need work. How well does she come when you call? Have you mastered the basics, like "sit" and "lie down"? Does all your training go out the window as soon as there's a distraction - a dog next door or a cat in the next county... Make an honest effort to evaluate just how much control you have in your relationship, and stay tuned for answers to how best to address any issues you may have. Thanks for reading, and be sure to drop me a line with any questions, at thedog_ma@yahoo.com.

EnvironMental Monday: Is Your House Making You (And Your Dog) Crazy?

When you think about caring for your canine companion, the first things that likely come to mind are the basics: Food, water, the daily walk... But what about where you hang your hat? We all know that, as humans, we are sensitive to things like limited sunlight, cramped spaces, and clutter. But do the same things have an effect on our pets?
The answer is a resounding yes, for a couple of reasons that we'll explore in this article. The first of these reasons has to do with the physiological make-up of animals themselves, while the second has more to do with something scientists are still trying to understand: The human-animal bond. To make things simple, we'll start with the most concrete answer first - the physical.
The canine sense of smell is thousands of times stronger than that of human beings. This is no surprise - dogs are now regularly employed in the task of sniffing out drugs, bodies, tumors, stress... The list goes on. Likewise, dogs can hear significantly higher frequencies than we can, and may actually feel physical pain at certain decibel levels. While their taste buds are less sophisticated than ours and their eyesight is typically not as keen, their extraordinary olfactory and auditory capabilities make it clear: Dogs are sensitive animals. If you use strong perfumes or detergents, or live in a neighborhood where sirens are sounding on a regular basis or there is ongoing construction, your pooch may be paying the price.
The second reason your environment may be adversely affecting your pup is not quite so widely understood, but may well have to do with that extraordinary sense of smell I spoke of earlier. Dogs can actually smell changes in your mood - the scent you give off as a result of pheromones changes when you're under stress; even a subtle shift can make your sensitive pal lift his muzzle in your direction. So, if you're coming home to a place that you don't like - the color doesn't appeal, the place is a mess, or you just plain don't feel right there... Well, chances are good that your canine companion is tuning into your discontent.

So, what's the answer? Do you sound-proof his crate, stop using deodorant, move to a low-crime area and hope no one has to re-pave the streets below in the near future? Or, go deep into debt making it the place of your dreams, just to make sure you aren't stressing poochie? Not at all. In the coming weeks, I'll devote each Monday to exploring simple, affordable ways that you can make your house a place both you and your dog love to come home to. In the meantime... Start looking at the place you call home. How do you feel about it? How does your dog react to it? Are you coming home to chewed furniture, accidents on the carpet, a pup that bowls you over in a frantic, out-of-control reception? If so, it may be time to take on a little subtle interior design. Stay tuned in the coming weeks to find out how, and be sure to send along any questions you have to thedog_ma@yahoo.com.