We've all seen them - the Jack Russell who springs five feet in the air every twenty seconds or so, or the border collie yipping wildly while she tries to round up the neighborhood kids, or the pit bull pulling his owner down the street in a desperate attempt to get to the next great smell. You may even be the proud owner of just such a dog yourself. If you are, you have probably wondered at least once, "Is there nothing that will tire this dog out?" Take heart, because the answer is yes - and I'll give you a few ideas of how in this post.
Dogs like terriers, border collies, some hounds, and many of the dogs known as "working" dogs, were bred to keep going and going and going and... Well, you get the picture. Terriers were designed to be hunters - to track and kill rodents all the livelong day, and to be happy doing just that. Herding dogs have the instinct to move - to keep things tidy, make sure everything is running smoothly and everyone is where they ought to be. When you put these types of dogs in a setting where they are not physically and mentally challenged, something's bound to give. You're likely to see excessive chewing, barking, digging, even obsessive-compulsive behaviors... When all else fails, that energy may be turned inward and manifest as depression and self-destructive behaviors like tail chasing or chewing, or even obsessive nail biting.
So, to prevent all of that and not actually spend
hours exercising to keep your high-energy pooch sane, what do you do? A long walk is a great start, but dogs like these also need to run. To complicate things further, working dogs are highly intelligent - they were bred to perform a job, not just sit around and look pretty. What you want to do is engage not just the body, but the mind as well. Here are a few ways you can do both, and enhance the bond between you and your dog to boot.
(1) Fetch. It's not a new game, but there's a reason it's one of the most enduring sports for pups and their people. It keeps you and your dog connected, provides a structured outlet for your dog's energy, and re-enforces recall. So what happens if your dog has no interest in the game? There are usually a couple of scenarios that result when fetch is introduced: either your dog has no interest in the object being thrown, or is psyched about the object but has no interest in bringing it back to you. Either way, it is possible for your dog - particularly your high-energy dog - to become a world-class fetching champion. Here's how to get him interested.
For the dog who just doesn't care what you're throwing, start at home by incorporating the object into life around the house. If it's a tennis ball, for example, toss it to your pup while you're watching TV some night. Give ample praise and get genuinely excited when he shows any interest whatsoever. You can also up the ante by giving him a little treat each time he keeps the ball in his mouth for more than a second or two. The key to all of this is that fetch is a game - be animated. Your dog will respond to your enthusiasm, and, after a few days of associating treats with the tennis ball, he'll start to get genuinely excited every time the ball makes an appearance. Once that happens, it's time to venture into the great outdoors. Ideally, you'll have an adequate space for your dog to run - it doesn't have to be huge, simply secure. The great thing about fetch is that it requires very little space but still uses up a remarkable amount of energy.
Now that your dog is nuts about the tennis ball, you may encounter the second problem: he'll fetch the ball, but he won't bring it to you. This, once again, is where treats come in. Some trainers have mixed feelings on the wisdom of using treats as motivators, but I have found that they are, without question, the most reliable way to positively re-enforce any desired behavior. Over time, the treats will no longer be needed - to begin, though, use a pea-sized treat and show your pooch once he has the ball in his mouth and is about to either run off with it or settle down to destroy it. If he keeps the ball in his mouth and comes to you, give
lots of praise, along with two or three treats. It's more likely that he will drop the ball and come to you - in that case, don't give any treats. Instead, go to the ball and pick it up; put it in the dog's mouth. Very quickly - before he has time to drop the ball in favor of the treats he now knows you have - take the ball from him and give a treat, with an enthusiastic "Good boy." Try again, and provide verbal praise for every step your dog takes toward you with the ball in his mouth - even if it's only two steps before he drops it. Before long, he'll understand what you're after and you can phase out treats, as the game itself will be reward enough.
(2) Search and rescue. This is a particularly good game for hounds, as they truly do "see" the world through their noses. With their muzzles to the ground ninety percent of the time, these pups are all about the hunt. Whether or not your high-energy pup is a hound, however, this is a great game to pass a rainy afternoon inside or, even better, to spice things up in the yard. Simply get five to ten natural dog biscuits and plant them in different places around the house. Lead your pup to the first couple of hiding places, bringing him within a foot or two of the treat - his nose will do the rest. Soon, he'll be busy foraging through the house for the rest of his treats, tail wagging. A word of caution: When you're "planting" your items, never bury them so well that you're dog will be tempted to dig or chew through your things to find them. This is especially true outside - hounds have powerful noses, and if you bury the treat a couple of inches down, he will dig up the entire yard to find his treasure. Put treats inside boxes to increase the challenge, or inside one of his favorite stuffed animals. Be creative, and - just like with fetch - remember to have fun!
(3) Doggie play groups. My first dog, Moonshadow, was a solo dog - she was a big, alpha female who loved other male dogs, but was very intimidating around females. For that reason, and because I was not yet well-versed in canine behavior myself, Moon ended up living a fairly solitary existence. When I interned at Clean Slate Animal Rescue, I had an opportunity to see firsthand just what a tragedy that was for Moon. Dogs are very social creatures. At the rescue, I ran "play groups" with anywhere from five to fifteen dogs. The play was often rough and there were certainly some encounters that were not the ideal, but for the most part I was able to watch these animals interact the way that they would in the wild. They sorted out the group dynamic, played, wrestled, and left the group at the end of their hour utterly exhausted.
It's unlikely that you have access to a fifteen-dog play group, and that's probably for the best. However, if you have friends or neighbors who have dogs, it's worth the time and effort to organize "play dates." When first introducing new dogs, make sure to go to neutral territory - a park, beach, or any area your dog has not "claimed" as his own. Be relaxed - remember that you have control over the situation, and can always cut the session short if things don't go well. There may be some posturing initially, but the dogs will in all likelihood work out the issue of hierarchy themselves. If your dog does not have a lot of experience with other pooches, it's a good idea to choose a dog of the opposite sex that you know is relatively submissive. The younger you can start socializing your dog to others, the better - my pups Adie and Killian grew up with no less than ten other dogs around them at all times, for the first nine months of their lives. Today, Killian - an eighty-pound male - flops over and shows his belly to even the tiniest of dogs at the slightest sign of dominance.
You should note that there are dogs who will inherently have trouble with others. If you own a pit bull terrier or "bully" breed (American Staffordshire Terriers, bull terriers, etc.) then you should exercise caution before introducing them to other pups. I had the opportunity to work with many bully breeds at Clean Slate, and personally found them to be, without exception, the sweetest, most devoted breeds out there, however you must recognize the limitations - the fact is, these dogs were bred specifically to be aggressive toward other dogs. Work with your dog one-on-one to ensure that his recall is at its best, and make sure that you know the potential play-pal well. Again, it's wise to choose a dog of the opposite sex that is moderately submissive and no less than half the size of your dog. Bullies are strong and they love to play rough!
In addition to the three ideas listed above, you may want to consider "rally" classes for your high-energy dog. An obedience class is a great idea for every dog, in my opinion, but rally classes - in which obedience training is taught experientially through a series of activities and actions - are great for high-energy dogs who love a challenge. Agility training is also an excellent option for these types of dogs; as agility sports gain in popularity, it is becoming increasingly accessible to more rural areas of the country. Check out
The Dog Agility Page for instruction, links, and ideas on how to get your dog involved in this rewarding activity.
There's no question that keeping your high-energy pooch pooped is hard work. But, with a little time and creativity on your part, it is definitely an attainable goal - and will not only work wonders for your dog, but has the added bonus of keeping you fit, active, and involved. Stay tuned next Wednesday when we look at the other end of the spectrum - Exercise and the
under active dog, focusing specifically on older dogs and those facing hip dysplasia and other joint-related disorders. Until then, be sure to send any questions or comments to thedog_ma@yahoo.com, and thanks for reading.
