Dogward Bound! The Wonder That Is Motel 6

There was an article recently in one of the many dog-related magazines to which I subscribe, all about pet travel. Glossy, full-page photos of pet-friendly hotels were scattered throughout; hotel rooms came equipped with hand-crafted doggie dishes, and there were even menus from room service especially for your canine companion. Which all sounds great, but... Here's the thing: Spending the night in one of these hotels was just slightly less than the gross national product of Namibia. Which is why I'm such a great fan of Motel 6 - the very same one that will "leave the light on for ya."

Motel 6 boasts that it is the "original pet-friendly motel," and I've seen nothing yet that says otherwise. During cross-country treks with my two monsters, Adia and Killian, I've been able to affordably and comfortably spend the night at Motel 6's from Nevada to New Hampshire. They truly do make traveling with pets that much simpler, with no added expense. If you are planning on staying in a Motel 6 - or any pet-friendly hotel/motel, for that matter - here are some tips to keep things running smoothly.

(1) Call ahead! The official policy of Motel 6 is that they will accept one well-behaved dog per room (as long as it is not in violation of local breed-specific legislation), however by calling ahead and giving some specs on my pups, they okay'd me having two in the room. And my guys aren't small - Killian is about eighty pounds, and Adie is forty-five.

(2) Be a considerate pet owner. That means cleaning up after your guys during walks, not leaving your pooches unattended in the room for excessive periods of time (particularly if they're barkers!), and bringing along a crate if your dogs are not well house-trained or are excessive chewers.

(3) Bring toys and treats. Once you're in the room, make sure to have some chewy treats handy for your guys, to keep them from chowing down on the furniture. A stuffed Kong, nyla-bone, or other heavy-duty toy should keep everyone happy and mellow while you recharge before hitting the road once more.

Follow these few simple tips, and you'll be on your way to having a great time exploring the globe with your furry friends.

Blast From the Past: Dogs and Writers

This is actually excerpted from an article I wrote back in 2005, when I was arts editor of the University of Southern Maine Free Press. I was in grad school for Creative Writing at the time, living in an apartment in a bad part of town with my sweet, now dearly departed old Moonshadow. Though my process is a little different with two pups, the sentiment remains the same, and it seems a fitting ode to dear Moon.

It starts out the way any of my writing starts out: I'm pacing the apartment, music blaring, talking to myself, while my giant, nine-year-old mutt Moonshadow looks on. The big dilemma this time out? What's a suitable topic for Lifestyle this issue, since your favorite columnist and mine, Miranda, is taking a well-deserved week off?

Lying on her side, sprawled half-on and half-off of her dog bed, Moon watches me pace. Gauging her reaction, I list possible topics.

"Being an arts editor."

She doesn't blink. She's right: too dull, and far too self-serving. What else do I know?

"Writing."

Moon averts her eyes, clearly pained at the thought.

"The decay of the English language. The decline of education in the face of standardized testing?"

Moon yawns. I've lost her. And then it strikes me: This is my column. Moon, and writing. Writers and dogs.

I shoot off a casual e-mail to my mentor, Lewis Robinson. Lewis has recently rescued Maggie, a sweet old Australian shepherd mix, and so I ask him: How has Maggie changed your routine? Does she help or hinder your writing? Within the hour, I get my response:

"I have to take (Maggie) out four times a day, and while the walks I take her on are endlessly fascinating for her... for me, they're really boring. But it's good for a writer to trudge around. Staring at square after square of sidewalk pavement forces you to clear your head."

Lewis refers me to someone else who might be helpful. Intrigued at his timely and insightful response, I send off another e-mail, this one to all the writers I know. Responses begin coming back almost immediately; some are just one line, some are lengthy diatribes, some are stories, some are poems. Lyman Feero, currently in his second semester of the Creative Writing MFA, writes of a dog that he once had named Grizzly: "Writing is a very solitary business and Griz kept me company... I could always count on him to just sit there and listen as I ran over some plot point or other."

Moon shares similar responsibilities. When I read aloud, she is generally at my feet, listening until I'm finished. She's well-accustomed to my pacing, to the random bursts of music when I'm stumped, to the frenetic schedule and the similarly-minded writer friends who come around. And as for my responsibilities to Moon, the few that there are must be stringently upheld. While Lewis and Maggie have four walks a day, Moon and I are just fine with two - one late in the morning, one in the early evening.

The morning walk is a casual affair, but the evening walk is serious bonding time. It's also the time when I've come up with some of my best story ideas. Every night, no matter what ungodly temperature it might be, Moon and I patrol the neighborhood. When the weather is particularly brutal, I make up scenarios to keep things interesting: I'm a Russian spy, Moon is my tracking hound; I'm a zoologist, Moon's my grizzly bear; the list goes on. Those walks connect me not to the mechanics of being a writer, the act of sitting down in front of a blank computer screen in search of the words, but rather to the essence of what drew me to writing in the first place. They are about imagination, and play, and remembrance that every corner is worth sniffing, every snowbank is there just for the roly-poly pleasure of fresh powder.

So, what is it about writers and dogs that seem innately compatible? From Ernest Hemingway to Alice Walker, there are essays and stories about the ways dogs ground us, reminding us of the need for balance. If writing is, as is often suggested, a quest for meaning and significance in the universe, dogs remind us that there can be meaning, and there can be significance - but there must also be naps and snacks and rolling in the snow.

Cinema Saturday: Carolyn Scott and Rookie

Okay, so I'm slightly obsessed with this video. I've managed to avoid the whole dog dancing craze thus far because it seems, well... a little silly. But then I watched this, and now I'm all about trying to get Adie to do the cha cha. Ah, the power of YouTube.

The Almighty Butt Sniff: What Does It Really Mean to a Dog?

Recently, I was talking with a friend who's been navigating the rocky world of new puppyhood. Her latest addition is a Golden Retriever pup named Buddy, now thirteen weeks old. He's a doll, I must say, and my girl Adie is SMITTEN! Brother Killian, of course, is not the least impressed, but Adia can't get enough of the little guy. Buddy's new parents, Kristen and Dave, are already taking their pooch to group training classes - hooray for responsible owners, I really can't get enough of them!

At any rate, Kristen was telling me last night about an interesting discussion her trainer had regarding dogs and butt sniffing. The gist of the discussion? That a dog who greets another dog by sniffing the behind is rude and looking for trouble. Huh? Because I obviously was not part of the initial conversation and so may very well be taking things out of context, let's shift the focus to the question at hand and away from the very troubling notion that a trainer may be giving complete misinformation to his students.

The question: What does it actually mean when a dog sniffs another dog's hind quarters?

There are a few answers to this question, but that action in and of itself is rarely a bad sign. The one instance in which it may mean trouble is if you have one dog who is tensed (tail up, body rigid, ears back) and is not reciprocating in the sniffing, while the second dog misses those clear cues and continues to sniff. This is a clear boundary violation that may well lead to trouble if someone does not intervene.

With that said, in most cases the "butt sniff" is simply two dogs saying howdy-do to one another. According to www.wagntrain.com, "When watching your dog interact with others, the general rule is to let the dogs decide what is and what isn't appropriate. Butt-sniffing, rough playing, barking in each other's ears, mounting, and other actions that dogs do would not be acceptable in human company, but are perfectly normal dog behavior." You can click here for some great, illustrated tips on reading dog body language. As far as the "butt sniffing" itself goes, it is more likely that the real issue is with the human guardian, not the dogs. The textbook "Teaching Dog Obedience Classes: The Manual for Instructors" has this to say on the subject: "...some people find a dog's method of greeting another dog to be objectionable. They are offended that a dog will sniff the genitals of another dog. When they understand that this is normal greeting behavior, that this is how dogs assess each other's status and stature, the behavior becomes a non-problem." (195-196).

So... Butt-sniffing? Not really a big problem, and certainly not an indicator of aggression or impending doom. There are a number of websites, blogs, books, and videos on the subject of dog body language, if you're interested in learning more. And for every dog owner out there, I truly believe that knowledge is power. There is so much information available on the subject of animal behavior today, and much of it is genuinely fascinating. Pick up THE OTHER END OF THE LEASH, by Dr. Patricia McConnell, read a few blogs, ask questions... You'll have a better understanding of your pooch as a result, you'll be more empowered when you get questionable advice from people supposedly in the know, and you'll have a better behaved dog at the end of the day.

For a little more info on this debate, you can read my mentor's blog post on the very same subject. Thanks for reading, and good luck!

Thursday's Nutrition Beat: Low Cal Treats Your Pudgy Pup Will Love

Yesterday, I talked a little about upping the exercise ante for your pudgy pooch. That is often easier said than done, however, particularly when you have a dog who has become used to the sedentary lifestyle. An overweight dog may find exercise uncomfortable, taxing, or downright painful. Your job as a responsible, loving caregiver, is to turn that around. The best way to do so is often by incorporating food into the exercise regiment. However, you'd be amazed at how calorie-dense many of the commercial doggie-treats are. Here, then, are a few healthful alternatives that will get your pup running for his leash

(1) Reduced fat string cheese. One "bar" is about 70 calories, and most dogs are wild about cheese. Cut it into pea-sized pieces and refrigerate prior to the walk, so that you can grab a handful on the go.

(2) Apples. Yes, that's right... Apples. Unlike carrots or celery (which many dogs are actually nuts about, as well), apples are sweet enough to satisfy most meat-and-potatoes pooches. If you have a dog that is easily food motivated, apples may be just the thing for him. Excise the core and seeds, cut into small pieces, and refrigerate.

(3) Sandwich meats. Oh, the response you'll get. The thing to know about processed sandwich meat is that it's often packed with salt and preservatives. To avoid that, choose an all-natural turkey or chicken from your local deli. As with the other treats, cut into small pieces and refrigerate.

(4) Doggie treats. Rather than using calorie-dense, preservative rich bones, try for a higher quality treat like freeze dried lamb or liver. Pea-sized or a little larger is the most desirable size for training, and will keep the calories to a minimum.

I like to make kind of a doggie-version of GORP for my walks, mixing in apples, deli turkey, string cheese, and high-quality dog treats like freeze-dried lamb. I make a mix with enough for both the morning and evening walk the night before, and keep it in a sealed container. That way, it's a simple matter to just go to the fridge, fill the Treat Tote, and get going.

One final note to keep in mind when you're up against the battle of the bulge: calories definitely do count. Talk to your veterinarian or read this post to find out how to calculate the appropriate calories for your pooch, and remember to factor treats into the daily calorie allocation. Consider replacing breakfast with treats given during walk time in the mornings, and you'll be sure to see results!

Workout Wednesday. The Perfect Exercise Partner: Your Pooch!

By now, you've probably heard the statistics: 65-percent of Americans are overweight or obese, and those numbers are growing. And if you're reading this blog, you are probably aware that obesity in American pets is also becoming epidemic - an estimated 25-percent of American dogs are considered obese. Like humans, overweight dogs are more at risk for diabetes, joint problems, heart disease, and some cancers. So, if you find that your favorite jeans and your pup's favorite collar just don't fit the way they used to, there may be a solution close at hand.

Personally, I'm facing this very same issue myself. During my animal rescue internship, life was so crazy that - while I was moving a lot for long hours each day - my sleep patterns were interrupted, I wasn't watching what I ate, and I wasn't getting the kind of cardiovascular and total-body workouts I require to stay fit. So... fifty pounds later, it's time to go back to the drawing board. And my pups? Both Adia and Killian are in reasonably good shape because I make all of their food myself and I'm careful about their portions, however Adia could still stand to lose about five pounds. What do I propose to do to shed those excess pounds?

Exercise, exercise, exercise. And it turns out, walking the dog is a great way to enjoy the great outdoors and get back in shape. In the past two weeks, I've increased my daily half-hour dog-walk to two hour-long walks per day. Not only do I feel a whole lot better, but I've lost eight pounds already. And Killian and Adie are both looking more svelte and their energy levels - for better or worse - are soaring. Because they're getting adequate exercise, however, chewing issues and general rowdiness have both been curbed. So, here are three tips for shedding pooch-and-person pounds sensibly.

(1) Know your pup's limits. If your pooch is a senior, has joint or other health related issues, or is seriously overweight, make sure to check in with your vet before starting any vigorous exercise. Just like humans, dogs need to ease into a fitness regiment. Begin slowly - if you've only been walking once a day, up it to twice; once in the morning, once in the evening. Watch how your dog reacts after the fact... Does he have more trouble than usual getting up the stairs or onto the couch? Your dog should be tired after exercise, but not comatose.

(2) Keep your pup motivated. For couch-potato pooches, hitting the streets may not be a welcome notion. Even for overweight or obese dogs, it is okay to use food as a motivator - just beware of what type of food. Read tomorrow's Nutrition Beat post for tips on healthy, lean, and tasty treats that will get your pup moving. Make the walk fun by giving lots of praise and pets. Reprimands and leash-jerking should be kept to a minimum; just as you would a child, you want to convey to your pup that exercise is FUN!

(3) Use the right equipment. If your dog turns every walk into the Iditarod, pulling you down Main Street with no regard for your pleas to slow down, it's time to invest in a nose collar (Gentle Leaders and Haltis are the most commonly used). Avoid extendible leashes, as they make it difficult for you to control your pup, and can be a disaster if he gets some momentum before reaching the end of the leash. You might consider a group class or a one-on-one session with a trainer to get some hands-on experience with a professional, as well.

Finally, remember to be consistent and to have fun! Getting in shape shouldn't be a burden - with a little resolve and a furry friend by your side, every step of the way can be a pleasure. And the reward? Better health, a longer life, and a happier pup. Really, what more could you ask for?

Training Tuesday. Play Versus Stay: Making Training Fun

How can training be a fun experience for an under-exercised dog? That was the big question for me recently, and one I'll explore in this post. This past Sunday, the Knox County Humane Society - where I'm doing my obedience training practicum - was closed for cleaning, which meant I could work with as many dogs as I liked without running into volunteers or prospective adopters. The drawback? It also meant that none of these dogs had gotten a lick of exercise before I took them out to attempt teaching sits, stays, and other Fun and Exciting Lessons of the Day.

I began with a two-year-old beagle named Carson, who had absolutely no interest in doing anything but pacing, sniffing, and - naturally enough - eliminating. It only makes sense that kenneled dogs will have pent-up energy that must be released before they can focus on training. But what about our own pups, who hang by our side and snooze on the living room rug? How much exercise do they really need, before you can get to the down and dirty act of obedience training?

The answer depends, of course, on the type, condition, and age of your pooch. A six-month-old pit bull puppy should ideally have an opportunity to run, play fetch, and do a little quality (controlled) wrestling with his people before being expected to learn those boring tricks we humans like so much - things like heel, stay, and down. And since younger dogs are typically the ones with the most intensive training needs within the home, it falls on the human guardian to come up with a regiment that makes the transition from play time to class time seem natural and fun. So, what does that mean for you? Here are a couple of tips to make training more effective and less frustrating for both you and the pup.

(1) Pee first, learn later. Start your training time by getting elimination out of the way first. When you have a full bladder, you're not much of a math wizard, right? Well, the same is true for your pooch. Let him water the tulips and fertilize the daffodils before you attempt a focused training session.

(2) Play, play, play. When I'm walking my own dogs, I begin by taking them out back for potty, then a somewhat frenzied walk to the park where I can let them run and wrestle. While they're playing, we work on things like recall, fetch, stop, and sit - all of which can be done on the fly, with lots of treats and plenty of fun. Just because you're dog is playing doesn't mean learning stops; on the contrary, dogs are much more inclined to enjoy training and retain lessons when there's a game involved.

(3) Tired dogs make the best students. Once you've gotten that initial frenzy out and your pup's tongue is lolling near the pavement, you can work on issues that require a little more concentration. Heeling, extended sit- and down-stays, and recall with added distractions are all lessons that work best with a less stimulated dog. Keep them motivated with treats and lots of praise, and remember to keep that final phase of daily training relatively short for the best results.

Training your dog should never seem like work to the dog. Ideally, it shouldn't seem like work to you, either, but there will invariably be those cloudy days when you'd rather sit at home and watch the world go by. Your pooch, on the other hand, should not only perk up when the leash comes 'round, but should be excited about every aspect of training. If you can work with your pup's natural rhythms rather than fighting against his energy, curiosity, and enthusiasm, than you are well on your way to a well-trained, happy, and healthy canine companion.

5 Things to Look for in Online Dog Training Courses

While the economy continues to take a nosedive, the pet business just keeps booming, with the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association predicting sales topping 43 billion dollars in 2008. With all of this attention (and cash) spent on our four-legged friends, there are invariably a host of new businesses looking to cash in. One of these is the online university, specializing in (or at least offering) courses in obedience training. Since I’m actually a student at two of these online institutes (Animal Behavior College and the Companion Animal Sciences Institute), it made sense to me to offer a bit of advice on what to look for if you’re interested in enrolling in one of these programs.

(1) What is the institution’s training philosophy? In my opinion, positive training is an absolute must - I believe (or at least I hope) that you would be hard-pressed to find an organization using traditional training methods (corrections/punishment versus positive reinforcement) at this point in time, but I’m sure if you looked hard enough, you could probably find someone. Here are some promising buzzwords: positive training; positive reinforcement; rewards-based training; clicker training… The list goes on. Speak with an actual, live representative from the school to find out their philosophy, as well as their take on such hot topics as Cesar Millan, Breed Specific Legislation, and punishment versus reward in training.

(2) Is there a practicum or internship required? Dog training is not a hands-off career. While there’s definitely a lot of theory involved, the reality is that you need to have a very high comfort level performing the techniques being taught with a variety of dogs. The program through Animal Behavior College requires an “externship,” in which each student must work with an approved trainer either in group classes or in a shelter setting. In the shelter setting, the student must complete a minimum of 7 90-minute sessions with the trainer, as well as 18 hours of practice sessions working with shelter dogs, and 10 hours of volunteer time at the shelter. The group class module requires that you go through a class with your own dog, observe another class, and actively assist in still another class, in addition to the 10 hours volunteering at a local shelter. To be honest, I was initially a little arrogant about the whole process - after all, I was running a rescue at the time, and spent 24/7 with anywhere from ten to thirty dogs right in my own backyard. I had the whole thing wired, right?

Not by a long shot. I was fortunate enough to actually do both modules of the program, beginning by taking my pup Adie through a basic obedience class at Bella’s K-9 Academy in Elizabethtown, Kentucky. We were far from a flawless duo, and the experience of actually being a student was invaluable to the process of becoming an instructor. Then, when I came up to Maine to do the shelter module, I began working with Marie Finnegan and was once again very humbled to realize that, frankly, I don’t have a clue yet. And if it weren’t for the ABC requirement of hands-on time with both dogs and knowledgeable instructors, I still wouldn’t have a clue. In short: Make sure there’s a bare minimum of twenty hours working with a trained professional as part of the curriculum.

(3) How do students and instructors communicate with one another? The Companion Animal Sciences Institute, where I’m currently studying canine nutrition, has a yahoo group for both students and instructors. It’s a great tool to create a feeling of community in the otherwise somewhat solitary pursuit that is online learning. The instructors moderate the conversations, provide direction when there are questions, and are generally just a very positive, informed presence in the group. Animal Behavior College does not offer anything along those lines, and I have to admit that I think the program suffers as a result. The externship mentors I’ve worked with have been absolutely fabulous, but it would still be nice to be able to touch base with other students in the program to find out a little about their experiences, chat about philosophies, and even just plain network a little.

(4) What is the curriculum? This may seem like kind of a basic question, but while researching this topic, I was amazed at how many online training courses do not provide access to the curriculum before a prospective student signs up. Before enrolling in any course, you should be able to learn the following: Reading list (both recommended and required); faculty profiles; course structure and duration; exam requirements and how they are administered; and a breakdown of each topic you’ll be studying.

(5) What kind of credibility does the certification gain in dog training circles? The reality is that dog trainers are not legally required to have any type of certification or training before declaring themselves trainers. Most (though definitely not all) pet owners are now savvy enough to ask some questions, however, and so it will serve you well to have just as many training tools, classes, and certifications under your belt as possible. However, log on with some obedience training groups through yahoo or myspace and ask questions about the program you’re looking at. Have other trainers heard of the school? Do they know anyone who has completed the program? Don’t let someone else’s input be your final decision, but weigh it with the other factors I’ve listed here and you’ll likely make a great decision that will put you well on your way to becoming a quality dog trainer.

Workout Wednesday: Exercise and Your Senior Dog

Imagine this:
You've reached your 60th birthday - a little achy around the joints, that spring in your step perhaps a little less... sprung, but generally healthy and still in love with life. And suddenly, your family says to you: Now that you're old, we've got a special new food that you'll be living on until your final days, and - because you've gotten old and we don't want to tire you out - from now on, you can just hang out. Don't worry about long walks or running around or anything, because we've noticed you're having a hard time with that stuff, anyway. Just chill out, relax. Sleep the days away.

I don't know about you, but that's hardly the way I want to spend my final few years on earth. And yet, that's just what we do to our beloved senior pups on a regular basis. We notice that getting up is a little tougher, or he may lag behind on a walk, and - because we love him so very much - we decide to either cut the walk short, or just stop it altogether.

What we actually need to do for our senior pups is quite the opposite. Regular exercise has been proven to improve heart and brain function in canines, slow joint degeneration and the aging process, aid digestion, and regulate bowel function. For senior dogs, exercise can quite literally mean adding years to your best friend's life. Here, then, are five tips to ensure that your dog stays fit and happy by your side just as long as possible.

(1) Start by checking in with your veterinarian. Regular visits are critical to maintaining health for aging dogs, in order to detect or prevent life-threatening issues like cancer, heart disease, or even periodental disease. Working with your vet, you can determine the best nutritional regiment and supplements for your pup, as well as ask any questions you may have about creating the best exercise routine for your dog.

(2) Take it slow. With the exception of the dog who has spent his life sprinting by his guardian's side, it is typically best to avoid strenuous aerobic activity with your senior. Dogs will push far beyond their physical limits to please us; it's our job now to tell them when to quit. A regular walk of from ten minutes to half-an-hour twice a day is a great way to keep your senior limber, active, and interested in the world around him. Senior dogs have the added challenge of requiring more frequent bathroom breaks, so a short walk in the morning and another in the evening helps your pup get into a more bladder-friendly routine. Try to stay consistent, be patient, and watch your pup for any changes in behavior, increased stiffness, or shortness of breath. If any of these occur, consult your veterinarian for recommendations.

(3) Watch the weather. Cold, wet days exacerbate joint problems, while hot days increase the possibility of heatstroke. Whenever temps dip or soar, indoor activities like hide and seek, fetch, or tug of war may be best. For cooler weather, invest in a doggie jacket or sweater to ease joint pain.

(4) Swim it out. If you have an aging water hound on your hands, now is the time to focus on the healing power of the sea. Because swimming is a low-impact exercise, it's perfect for painful joints and arthritis, and is also a great way for overweight dogs to take off some pounds. However, it's still important to watch temps - warm spring and summer days are great, but avoid icy dips. Even on warm days, have a towel handy to dry your pooch before he becomes chilled.

(5) Listen to your pup. If you have a senior dog, chances are good that you've spent considerable time getting to know him; you can tell when he's dragging. if he's having a tough time getting up when sitting or lying down, it means there is probably some arthritis or other joint-related issues at work. Limit physical activity to shorter walks on a more frequent basis, and look for a quality canine supplement containing glucosamine and chondroitin. You may also invest in quality essential fatty acids like those found in cod liver, flaxseed, or salmon oils, or a quality pet product like Dream Coat.

In my experience, the senior years can be some of the most cherished you'll ever spend with your dog. Now is the time when you know each other well, discipline isn't as much of an issue, and you can relax and just enjoy life together. Be sure to include him in as much of your life as possible, and your aging pooch will truly learn to love retirement.

For additional information and some excellent articles and tips on senior dogs, you can check out The Senior Dog Project, or this article from petplace.com. Thanks for reading, and be sure to check out next Workout Wednesday, when we'll look at the benefits of turning your hyper-hound into a Working Dog.

Training Tuesday: The Almighty Sit

Now that you've spent the past week bonding with your pup, it's time to add some structure to your training sessions. If you have a dog who hasn't quite mastered sit, or is only a master when there are treats involved, this post will teach you how to make your pup a Sitting Fiend.

Unlike dancing, twirling, or standing on his hind legs, sitting is a natural position for your pooch. For this reason, it's a fairly simple thing to teach - once it's been taught, it's just a matter of repetition to make your dog's "sit" flawless. Begin by making sure you have plenty of training-sized treats (the size of a pea, or very slightly larger for big dogs). If your dog has never learned sit before, stand in front of him and show him your treat. If he jumps, turn away and wait for him to settle. Occasionally, dogs will automatically sit when they're confused - if that happens, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. If he's still standing looking baffled, say "Sit" and hold the treat just above his nose, then move the treat up and back, toward his tail. In order to keep his eye on the treat, he'll need to either sit or move. If he sits, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. Repeat the process five to ten times, until he is sitting as soon as you present the treat.

If your pooch is a dancer, - a pup who will spin around to visually track the treat rather than sit, even when sitting is the easier option - then you may need to be a little more hands-on. Never press down on your dog's backside - it can be very painful if there are undiagnosed hip issues, or it can simply make a skittish or dominant dog uncomfortable. Instead, hold the treat in front of his nose with one hand, while you reach behind the back knees and essentially sweep the legs to make the dog sit. As you are doing this, say "Sit" once, firmly; as soon as he is in the sitting position, give lots of praise and a treat. Try again without physically positioning your dog; after about five attempts, he should make the connection and begin sitting without your physical cues.

In order to reinforce the almighty "sit," give the command as frequently as possible. Whether you're out on a walk or lounging in your living room, take a moment out for a quick sit. Initially, it's best to have treats handy for this exercise; over the course of the next week, gradually wean your pup from the goodies by doing a three-sit session. On the first sit, give a treat; on the next two, mix it up a little by giving a treat only on the second or third try. In addition, make sure you always use the sit command before leashing or feeding your pup; he'll begin to associate sitting with all the best things in his life, and before long will readily sit when he sees something he wants.

Next week, we'll go over the sticky issue of teaching your pup to lie down - surprisingly, one of the most difficult commands to master. I'll also teach you some relaxation techniques and a new command to keep energized pups from driving you mad when you just want to spend a quiet evening at home. Until then, thanks for reading and drop a line with your questions.