Training Tuesday: Socialization, Pit Bulls, and the Dogs All Around Us

If you've ever witnessed a dog fight, you know the feeling: the sense of helplessness and horror when fur flies and snarling bodies rocket toward one another. If you've witnessed a pit bull fight, that feeling is magnified a thousand times, as a dog aggressive pit bull is physically and mentally engineered to fight to the death. Regardless of how much you may love that bully face, as a pit bull owner it is imperative for your dog's safety and the safety of others that you understand the limitations of this breed. Pit bulls were bred to fight other dogs; this is a despicable but indisputable fact. With that in mind, it is not your job to teach your bully to love other dogs; your job is to teach him to tolerate the presence of other pups, and not to fixate.

Are all pit bulls dog-aggressive? Unequivocally no - I've worked with many pit bulls who love playing with other dogs. At Clean Slate, Dave's American Staffordshire mix Lou is present in almost all of the dog play groups, and is well-loved by every puppy who enters the building. I have seen that same gentle giant turn on his doggie housemates during heightened circumstances and inflict serious harm. The point? Lou continues to work as a supervised caretaker in many of the dog play groups, but is never, ever left alone with other dogs. Would I trust him with children? In a heartbeat. But there is a genetic trigger that pushes bully breeds when it comes to other dogs. So, is there a way to address that trigger, or are bully owners doomed to walk alone forever? Here are some tips for how to create a more dog-friendly sensibility in your pit bull.

(1) Start young. If you have a pit bull puppy, the key socialization period is up to twelve weeks. Expose your pup to countless positive interactions with people, as well as with dogs. If you have an opportunity to socialize your bully pup with other puppies, keep it calm and keep it positive. If your little guy is demonstrating dominating behavior like repeat attacks on a more submissive pup, humping, or ignoring his playmate's cues to settle down, it's time for a time-out. Don't punish, simply pull your bully out of the fray and give him some alone time. Reward calm behavior with treats, and keep your own tone gentle and low-key.

(2) NEVER, EVER PHYSICALLY DOMINATE YOUR PIT BULL! If you have a situation in which your bully is trying to dominate other pups, it is never, ever appropriate or helpful to force your dog down and hold him there (sometimes known as the "alpha roll"). Despite what some TV shows (Caesar Milan, anyone?) may lead you to believe, the benefit of the alpha roll has been completely disproved and in almost every case has been shown to be extremely detrimental for the dog. If your pooch is misbehaving in a group setting, your answer is clear: it's time to go. There is no need for (or benefit to) a physical display of dominance, as this does nothing but create negative associations with other dogs and with you.

(3) The leash is your friend! Pit bulls are notoriously difficult to read - hence their great success in the dog-fighting world. They give few cues as to when they will attack, which I suppose is an asset in the ring but frankly leaves you and I with a distinct disadvantage. For that reason, not only should your bully always be on-leash, but you should avoid areas where other dogs are typically off-leash. An unsuspecting pup at the dog park may come running up to your bully with no idea that they aren't the best of friends. Pit bulls are fast and strong, so one snap and that nasty little Chihuahua prancing around your bully's head could mean the end - for both dogs, because a fatal dog attack means that your pit bull will be put down.

(4) Try walking it out. If you have a pit bull who is on the fence about other dogs, try going for a walk with a fellow dog-guardian. The other dog should be of the opposite sex, and preferably spayed or neutered. With both dogs on leash and focused on the journey ahead, your bully can get acclimated to the presence of someone else without becoming fixated. Let the dogs sniff each other, be on the lookout for good signs like a relaxed posture or playbows, give plenty of praise and treats, and remember to always reward for good behavior.

(5) Dog aggression is chronic, not terminal. There is no cure-all for dog-to-dog aggression. If your bully is not friendly toward other pups, take comfort in knowing that you are not alone - in fact, most pit bulls have some issues with other dogs. Be patient and positive, and remember that safety is the number one priority: always keep your dog on leash on outings, never leave him alone with other dogs (or any animals), and reward him amply for calm behavior. If you follow these guidelines, your pit bull may not be the belle of the ball, but he will live a happy, safe life with you by his side.

Welcome to a Week's Worth of Pit Posts!

This week's theme came as a result of a conversation I was having with my friend Jan recently, who was talking about her friend's new pit bull puppy, a silver pit named Element. Naturally, I'm always excited when I hear that a pit bull has gone to a responsible home, and I immediately started peppering poor Jan with questions:

How old was the puppy? Did the new owners - who have two young sons - know that pit bulls were once known as the "nanny" dog in Great Britain, for their patience, devotion, and high pain tolerance to little hands pulling dog ears and tails? What were they doing to socialize the newcomer to other dogs?

So many questions, so many topics. I thought this would be a great forum to address many of these questions, for people who either have a pit bull themselves or for those are simply entertaining the idea of adopting one of these amazing dogs. Without question, pit bulls are not for everyone - they are highly intelligent, have loads of energy, and need lots of positive interaction and training to reach their full potential. Be sure to check in all week long, as we explore the ins and outs of becoming a pit bull dog-ma (or dog-dad!).

Training Tuesday. Using Treats As an Effective Training Tool

Recently, I've heard a few somewhat disturbing comments regarding the misconceptions of using food in dog training. Because I've been working with dogs for a while now, I think I just assumed that using food to reinforce good behavior was standard practice. No one really thinks it's "bribery" anymore, right? Or that you're somehow spoiling the dog by rewarding good behavior? Well... Sadly, that seems not to be the case. Here's an excerpt from a dog training website I stumbled upon recently: "Be forewarned, the words 'Positive Reinforcement, Luring and Operant Conditioning' are code for bribing with food." Keep in mind that these folks are APDT (Association of Pet Dog Trainers) members, seem to have a long history of dog training, and have an extensive website with lots and lots of information. Much of that information is misinformation, and I would be very curious to actually see what their methods are for getting the results they promise.

So, here are three common myths for folks opposed to so-called food-based training, and some tips for how you can avoid such pitfalls when you're working with your own pooch.

(1) My dog will only perform if I have treats.

This common idea demonstrates a misunderstanding of the basic premise of positive reinforcement training. On the first go-round when you're teaching your pup to sit - in other words, you are conveying the physical movement involved in sitting down - the treat should be at your dog's nose to "lure" him into position. As soon as he sits, he receives the treat, thus conveying that the word "Sit" means to settle on his haunches. The word now has meaning to him, and by performing that action he is rewarded. By your second lesson, you should start picking and choosing when the dog receives a food reward. If you're doing a round of three sits, give a tasty treat for the first good sit, none for the second, and one for the third. By now, you should not be showing the dog a treat before giving a command. Tell him "Sit," wait until he has done so, and then produce the treat from your pocket and give it to him.

(2) I am giving up my dominant position by rewarding him for good behavior.

The fact of the matter is that dogs respond best to consistency, affection, and clear boundaries. Think of it this way: You probably have a job of some kind, correct? And from that job you derive some kind of income. The equivalent for your pup is two square meals and a roof over his head; that's your pooch's base pay. Now, what happens to you when you get a bonus now and again, or a well-deserved pat on the back? These little extras make you that much more likely to perform well and enjoy the work you're doing. Do you have less respect for your boss after you've received accolades? Are you less likely to go the extra mile? It's no different for dogs. You can train your dog without those little extras, but studies have proven that it slows the learning process and decreases the level of enjoyment (and thus retainment) for the dog.

(3) My dog won't respect me if I use only positive reinforcement.

Positive reinforcement does not mean your dog never gets feedback when he does something wrong. Every trainer that I've ever heard of - even the ones who are all about positive reinforcement - understands that a dog must get some indication when he does something wrong, in order to avoid making the same mistake twice. For example, my pups Adia and Killian are required to sit and wait at the door until I give the "Let's go" command. When they do it properly, they aren't rewarded with food, but with the pleasure of hitting the pavement (and what's better to a cooped up pup than a walk on the mean streets?) When Adia gets a little too excited and won't sit, or Killian decides he's had enough and rushes the door, their "punishment" is to remove the thing they most want: the walk. I say "Unh-uh" and close the door, and we try again. It isn't stressful for them (or me), and by now they typically settle down after the second try. They respect me just fine, thank you very much, and - because our time together isn't about battling for status, we generally tend to have a blast together.

Whether or not you use treats is, of course, ultimately up to you. But just be aware that a great deal of research has been put into the subject, and most experts agree: a biscuit, triscuit, or tasty golden nugget makes training ever so much simpler for you, and more pleasurable for your pup. And isn't that what it's really all about?

Training Tuesday. Play Versus Stay: Making Training Fun

How can training be a fun experience for an under-exercised dog? That was the big question for me recently, and one I'll explore in this post. This past Sunday, the Knox County Humane Society - where I'm doing my obedience training practicum - was closed for cleaning, which meant I could work with as many dogs as I liked without running into volunteers or prospective adopters. The drawback? It also meant that none of these dogs had gotten a lick of exercise before I took them out to attempt teaching sits, stays, and other Fun and Exciting Lessons of the Day.

I began with a two-year-old beagle named Carson, who had absolutely no interest in doing anything but pacing, sniffing, and - naturally enough - eliminating. It only makes sense that kenneled dogs will have pent-up energy that must be released before they can focus on training. But what about our own pups, who hang by our side and snooze on the living room rug? How much exercise do they really need, before you can get to the down and dirty act of obedience training?

The answer depends, of course, on the type, condition, and age of your pooch. A six-month-old pit bull puppy should ideally have an opportunity to run, play fetch, and do a little quality (controlled) wrestling with his people before being expected to learn those boring tricks we humans like so much - things like heel, stay, and down. And since younger dogs are typically the ones with the most intensive training needs within the home, it falls on the human guardian to come up with a regiment that makes the transition from play time to class time seem natural and fun. So, what does that mean for you? Here are a couple of tips to make training more effective and less frustrating for both you and the pup.

(1) Pee first, learn later. Start your training time by getting elimination out of the way first. When you have a full bladder, you're not much of a math wizard, right? Well, the same is true for your pooch. Let him water the tulips and fertilize the daffodils before you attempt a focused training session.

(2) Play, play, play. When I'm walking my own dogs, I begin by taking them out back for potty, then a somewhat frenzied walk to the park where I can let them run and wrestle. While they're playing, we work on things like recall, fetch, stop, and sit - all of which can be done on the fly, with lots of treats and plenty of fun. Just because you're dog is playing doesn't mean learning stops; on the contrary, dogs are much more inclined to enjoy training and retain lessons when there's a game involved.

(3) Tired dogs make the best students. Once you've gotten that initial frenzy out and your pup's tongue is lolling near the pavement, you can work on issues that require a little more concentration. Heeling, extended sit- and down-stays, and recall with added distractions are all lessons that work best with a less stimulated dog. Keep them motivated with treats and lots of praise, and remember to keep that final phase of daily training relatively short for the best results.

Training your dog should never seem like work to the dog. Ideally, it shouldn't seem like work to you, either, but there will invariably be those cloudy days when you'd rather sit at home and watch the world go by. Your pooch, on the other hand, should not only perk up when the leash comes 'round, but should be excited about every aspect of training. If you can work with your pup's natural rhythms rather than fighting against his energy, curiosity, and enthusiasm, than you are well on your way to a well-trained, happy, and healthy canine companion.

Training Tuesday: The Almighty Sit

Now that you've spent the past week bonding with your pup, it's time to add some structure to your training sessions. If you have a dog who hasn't quite mastered sit, or is only a master when there are treats involved, this post will teach you how to make your pup a Sitting Fiend.

Unlike dancing, twirling, or standing on his hind legs, sitting is a natural position for your pooch. For this reason, it's a fairly simple thing to teach - once it's been taught, it's just a matter of repetition to make your dog's "sit" flawless. Begin by making sure you have plenty of training-sized treats (the size of a pea, or very slightly larger for big dogs). If your dog has never learned sit before, stand in front of him and show him your treat. If he jumps, turn away and wait for him to settle. Occasionally, dogs will automatically sit when they're confused - if that happens, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. If he's still standing looking baffled, say "Sit" and hold the treat just above his nose, then move the treat up and back, toward his tail. In order to keep his eye on the treat, he'll need to either sit or move. If he sits, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. Repeat the process five to ten times, until he is sitting as soon as you present the treat.

If your pooch is a dancer, - a pup who will spin around to visually track the treat rather than sit, even when sitting is the easier option - then you may need to be a little more hands-on. Never press down on your dog's backside - it can be very painful if there are undiagnosed hip issues, or it can simply make a skittish or dominant dog uncomfortable. Instead, hold the treat in front of his nose with one hand, while you reach behind the back knees and essentially sweep the legs to make the dog sit. As you are doing this, say "Sit" once, firmly; as soon as he is in the sitting position, give lots of praise and a treat. Try again without physically positioning your dog; after about five attempts, he should make the connection and begin sitting without your physical cues.

In order to reinforce the almighty "sit," give the command as frequently as possible. Whether you're out on a walk or lounging in your living room, take a moment out for a quick sit. Initially, it's best to have treats handy for this exercise; over the course of the next week, gradually wean your pup from the goodies by doing a three-sit session. On the first sit, give a treat; on the next two, mix it up a little by giving a treat only on the second or third try. In addition, make sure you always use the sit command before leashing or feeding your pup; he'll begin to associate sitting with all the best things in his life, and before long will readily sit when he sees something he wants.

Next week, we'll go over the sticky issue of teaching your pup to lie down - surprisingly, one of the most difficult commands to master. I'll also teach you some relaxation techniques and a new command to keep energized pups from driving you mad when you just want to spend a quiet evening at home. Until then, thanks for reading and drop a line with your questions.

Dogward Bound! The Doggie Diaper Bag - For Hounds on the Go

Did you know that even vaccinated dogs can contract and spread Parvovirus, the deadly virus responsible for killing hundreds of puppies each year? While your grown pooch may never actually get sick because he's been vaccinated, he may be putting others at risk with each step he takes. That's why whenever I'm traveling with my own pups - whether it's just around the block or it's a full-on cross-country trek - I make sure I have their "diaper bag." Unlike the ten-gallon sack your best friend is saddled with each time she wants to bring along her toddler, the doggie diaper bag is simple and unobtrusive, and yet very effective in keeping pups safe and happy.

The doggie diaper bag consists of just a few easy-to-find items. With the exception of a couple of things, I was able to find everything listed at the local All for a Dollar store for - you guessed it - a buck.

(1) The bag itself. I use a mini-backpack because it's easy to toss over my shoulder and forget about when I'm just taking the pups for a walk around the block. Similarly, I can pull over to the shoulder if I'm on a long trip, grab the backpack, and go. Just remember to keep the pack in a handy place wherever you go, and you'll no longer be scrambling for plastic bags, leashes, or supplies when critical moments present themselves. Prices range from $10 at Walgreens all the way up to $50 or $60 at trendier shops. My sister-in-law picked mine up for a dollar at a yard sale, so if cash is tight keep your eyes peeled for bargains.

(2) Plastic bags. For easy clean-up, bring along a good supply of plastic bags. There are special potty bags available at your local pet store, but I've found it more inexpensive to use the seemingly endless supply of plastic bags I'm given while out shopping.

(3) A small spray bottle filled with a 3:1 bleach/water solution. Parvo and other viruses can be killed with this simple, inexpensive solution. If you're walking your dog in a public place, take a little extra care and spray a light mist on the area where your pup just eliminated once the waste has been cleaned up. Parvo is passed through direct contact with contaminated fecal matter, so if for some reason your pup is carrying along a dormant form of the virus, this will help ensure that no one else is put at risk. Caution: I reserve this for public streets and rest areas; the solution can kill plants, grasses, and flowers, so if you're hiking the back trails of Yellowstone, hold off for the sake of the flora. Spray bottle and bleach both found at All for a Dollar.

(4) Pre-moistened towelettes. For messy moments, towelettes are a wonder. All for a Dollar.

(5) Napkins. You may never even open the package, but there are definitely times when these sorts of supplies come in handy. All for a Dollar.

(6) Collapsible water dish. If the walk unexpectedly turns into a hike, you'll be prepared. I prefer the Collaps-a-Bowl, $3.99 at Petco.

(7) A bottle of water. Particularly in warmer months, it's critical to keep your pooch (and yourself) hydrated. Whether for short or long walks, always have a bottle of water handy. Free from the tap, or $0.89 and up at your local mart.

(8) Dog treats. A necessity for every household - treats make the world go 'round. Make your own with all-natural recipes from bullwrinkle.com, or buy a bag or two to have handy. While I'm thrifty on a lot of counts, I've found that when it comes to foodstuffs, it pays not to scrimp. While dog treats can be found at the dollar store, I recommend a higher quality brand at a local pet shop. $3.00 and up at local shops, or make your own for the cost of the ingredients.

(9) Toys. When conditions are right, daily walks around the block may unexpectedly turn into all-morning play sessions for my guys. The weather's too nice, deadlines aren't quite so tight, or I just plain want to be outside. When these moments arrive, it's always nice to be prepared. I keep a couple of tennis balls in the diaper bag, and from there let the day fall as it may. Three tennis balls for a buck at All for a Dollar.

(10) ID and a recent photo of your pup(s). Bad things happen. Your pup may get loose and bolt, or - if you have a well-behaved or showy pedigreed pooch - may even be dog-napped when your back is turned. In either situation, by having all of the necessary items right there with you, you don't have to waste time running back to the house. Often in these kinds of situations, time is a critical factor... Within a minute of realizing your pup's MIA, you can be showing the photo to strangers in the area, and ideally can be reunited before the morning's out.

For a maximum of twenty dollars and a small time investment, you can assemble everything you need for a hike down the street or a day-long trek with your favorite walking compadres. Hang the assembled bag by the door so that you can just grab it and go when the opportunity arises, and it will make dog-walking a simpler, more efficient, and more enjoyable experience every time out. Thanks for reading, and be sure to check back next Dog-Gone Sunday when I'll review Mammoth Cave, Kentucky - a haven of hiking trails and gorgeous views that's - you guessed it - very dog-friendly.

Workout Wednesday: Three Super-Charged Exercise Ideas for High-Energy Pups

We've all seen them - the Jack Russell who springs five feet in the air every twenty seconds or so, or the border collie yipping wildly while she tries to round up the neighborhood kids, or the pit bull pulling his owner down the street in a desperate attempt to get to the next great smell. You may even be the proud owner of just such a dog yourself. If you are, you have probably wondered at least once, "Is there nothing that will tire this dog out?" Take heart, because the answer is yes - and I'll give you a few ideas of how in this post.

Dogs like terriers, border collies, some hounds, and many of the dogs known as "working" dogs, were bred to keep going and going and going and... Well, you get the picture. Terriers were designed to be hunters - to track and kill rodents all the livelong day, and to be happy doing just that. Herding dogs have the instinct to move - to keep things tidy, make sure everything is running smoothly and everyone is where they ought to be. When you put these types of dogs in a setting where they are not physically and mentally challenged, something's bound to give. You're likely to see excessive chewing, barking, digging, even obsessive-compulsive behaviors... When all else fails, that energy may be turned inward and manifest as depression and self-destructive behaviors like tail chasing or chewing, or even obsessive nail biting.

So, to prevent all of that and not actually spend hours exercising to keep your high-energy pooch sane, what do you do? A long walk is a great start, but dogs like these also need to run. To complicate things further, working dogs are highly intelligent - they were bred to perform a job, not just sit around and look pretty. What you want to do is engage not just the body, but the mind as well. Here are a few ways you can do both, and enhance the bond between you and your dog to boot.

(1) Fetch. It's not a new game, but there's a reason it's one of the most enduring sports for pups and their people. It keeps you and your dog connected, provides a structured outlet for your dog's energy, and re-enforces recall. So what happens if your dog has no interest in the game? There are usually a couple of scenarios that result when fetch is introduced: either your dog has no interest in the object being thrown, or is psyched about the object but has no interest in bringing it back to you. Either way, it is possible for your dog - particularly your high-energy dog - to become a world-class fetching champion. Here's how to get him interested.

For the dog who just doesn't care what you're throwing, start at home by incorporating the object into life around the house. If it's a tennis ball, for example, toss it to your pup while you're watching TV some night. Give ample praise and get genuinely excited when he shows any interest whatsoever. You can also up the ante by giving him a little treat each time he keeps the ball in his mouth for more than a second or two. The key to all of this is that fetch is a game - be animated. Your dog will respond to your enthusiasm, and, after a few days of associating treats with the tennis ball, he'll start to get genuinely excited every time the ball makes an appearance. Once that happens, it's time to venture into the great outdoors. Ideally, you'll have an adequate space for your dog to run - it doesn't have to be huge, simply secure. The great thing about fetch is that it requires very little space but still uses up a remarkable amount of energy.

Now that your dog is nuts about the tennis ball, you may encounter the second problem: he'll fetch the ball, but he won't bring it to you. This, once again, is where treats come in. Some trainers have mixed feelings on the wisdom of using treats as motivators, but I have found that they are, without question, the most reliable way to positively re-enforce any desired behavior. Over time, the treats will no longer be needed - to begin, though, use a pea-sized treat and show your pooch once he has the ball in his mouth and is about to either run off with it or settle down to destroy it. If he keeps the ball in his mouth and comes to you, give lots of praise, along with two or three treats. It's more likely that he will drop the ball and come to you - in that case, don't give any treats. Instead, go to the ball and pick it up; put it in the dog's mouth. Very quickly - before he has time to drop the ball in favor of the treats he now knows you have - take the ball from him and give a treat, with an enthusiastic "Good boy." Try again, and provide verbal praise for every step your dog takes toward you with the ball in his mouth - even if it's only two steps before he drops it. Before long, he'll understand what you're after and you can phase out treats, as the game itself will be reward enough.

(2) Search and rescue. This is a particularly good game for hounds, as they truly do "see" the world through their noses. With their muzzles to the ground ninety percent of the time, these pups are all about the hunt. Whether or not your high-energy pup is a hound, however, this is a great game to pass a rainy afternoon inside or, even better, to spice things up in the yard. Simply get five to ten natural dog biscuits and plant them in different places around the house. Lead your pup to the first couple of hiding places, bringing him within a foot or two of the treat - his nose will do the rest. Soon, he'll be busy foraging through the house for the rest of his treats, tail wagging. A word of caution: When you're "planting" your items, never bury them so well that you're dog will be tempted to dig or chew through your things to find them. This is especially true outside - hounds have powerful noses, and if you bury the treat a couple of inches down, he will dig up the entire yard to find his treasure. Put treats inside boxes to increase the challenge, or inside one of his favorite stuffed animals. Be creative, and - just like with fetch - remember to have fun!

(3) Doggie play groups. My first dog, Moonshadow, was a solo dog - she was a big, alpha female who loved other male dogs, but was very intimidating around females. For that reason, and because I was not yet well-versed in canine behavior myself, Moon ended up living a fairly solitary existence. When I interned at Clean Slate Animal Rescue, I had an opportunity to see firsthand just what a tragedy that was for Moon. Dogs are very social creatures. At the rescue, I ran "play groups" with anywhere from five to fifteen dogs. The play was often rough and there were certainly some encounters that were not the ideal, but for the most part I was able to watch these animals interact the way that they would in the wild. They sorted out the group dynamic, played, wrestled, and left the group at the end of their hour utterly exhausted.

It's unlikely that you have access to a fifteen-dog play group, and that's probably for the best. However, if you have friends or neighbors who have dogs, it's worth the time and effort to organize "play dates." When first introducing new dogs, make sure to go to neutral territory - a park, beach, or any area your dog has not "claimed" as his own. Be relaxed - remember that you have control over the situation, and can always cut the session short if things don't go well. There may be some posturing initially, but the dogs will in all likelihood work out the issue of hierarchy themselves. If your dog does not have a lot of experience with other pooches, it's a good idea to choose a dog of the opposite sex that you know is relatively submissive. The younger you can start socializing your dog to others, the better - my pups Adie and Killian grew up with no less than ten other dogs around them at all times, for the first nine months of their lives. Today, Killian - an eighty-pound male - flops over and shows his belly to even the tiniest of dogs at the slightest sign of dominance.

You should note that there are dogs who will inherently have trouble with others. If you own a pit bull terrier or "bully" breed (American Staffordshire Terriers, bull terriers, etc.) then you should exercise caution before introducing them to other pups. I had the opportunity to work with many bully breeds at Clean Slate, and personally found them to be, without exception, the sweetest, most devoted breeds out there, however you must recognize the limitations - the fact is, these dogs were bred specifically to be aggressive toward other dogs. Work with your dog one-on-one to ensure that his recall is at its best, and make sure that you know the potential play-pal well. Again, it's wise to choose a dog of the opposite sex that is moderately submissive and no less than half the size of your dog. Bullies are strong and they love to play rough!

In addition to the three ideas listed above, you may want to consider "rally" classes for your high-energy dog. An obedience class is a great idea for every dog, in my opinion, but rally classes - in which obedience training is taught experientially through a series of activities and actions - are great for high-energy dogs who love a challenge. Agility training is also an excellent option for these types of dogs; as agility sports gain in popularity, it is becoming increasingly accessible to more rural areas of the country. Check out The Dog Agility Page for instruction, links, and ideas on how to get your dog involved in this rewarding activity.

There's no question that keeping your high-energy pooch pooped is hard work. But, with a little time and creativity on your part, it is definitely an attainable goal - and will not only work wonders for your dog, but has the added bonus of keeping you fit, active, and involved. Stay tuned next Wednesday when we look at the other end of the spectrum - Exercise and the under active dog, focusing specifically on older dogs and those facing hip dysplasia and other joint-related disorders. Until then, be sure to send any questions or comments to thedog_ma@yahoo.com, and thanks for reading.

Training Tuesday: How to Create a Bond That Will Last

The role of leader - or "pack leader" as some dog professionals like to call it - is a tricky concept for many. There is a somewhat ill-conceived theory out there that, for dogs, might equals right - you have to win your dog's respect (and love) by dominating him. While this may work in the wild, the reality is that by following this line of reasoning in your own home, you are setting a very dangerous precedent. Within the structure of the "pack," wild dogs are always on the lookout for an opportunity to assume the role the of pack leader. The current leader falls ill or is a little off in any way, and the next in line is immediately prepared to take over. Naturally, the last thing we want in our own lives is a pooch looking for signs of weakness so that he can stage a mini-revolt. In that scenario, the thing keeping your dog in line is not respect, but fear of retribution.

Now, make no mistake - you have the responsibility of assuming the leadership role. Dogs, like children, need (and want) someone to be in control; if you aren't, then they'll assume that role by default. But assuming that leadership by force is not only counterproductive, but is often downright dangerous. Moves like alpha downs (forcing a dog to lie down while the owner physically pins him, thus "proving" dominance), physical corrections, shock or prong collars... These things do not teach your dog the correct behavior - they teach him to be afraid of the wrong behavior and, more importantly, of you. Such methods breed resentment, and, if your dog does not strike out at you directly, he will in all likelihood either be fearful of humans, or actively aggressive toward them.

So, how do you establish the leadership role with your dog? For the next week, that's all you will work on - whether your dog is an old friend who's been with you for years, or is brand new to your home. It's an exercise that requires no training, but will require some vigilance on your part. At times, you may feel as though you're being too strict - don't worry, you can go back to the old ways (with some exciting new changes!) when the week is over.

Begin your week by stocking up on plenty of high-value treats: cheese or lean meats (if using sandwich meats, be sure to choose those with low sodium), cut into pea-sized pieces. I've also found that many dogs will respond to sliced apples, and homemade biscuits are invariably a big hit. Visit bullwrinkle.com for some super, all-natural recipes.

So... You have your treats. Here are the four things you need to do this week to establish (or strengthen) the foundation upon which to build a great training relationship:

(1) All food this week comes from you. If you have children, it's a great idea to repeat this exercise with them at some point, ensuring that every scrap of food your pup gets comes from your little ones. In the wild, great respect is given to those who provide sustenance. For now, though, you are the one setting every meal in front of your pup, and the one tossing him every treat. When feeding a meal, it's a good idea to first make your dog sit - even if just for a moment - before presenting the bowl and letting him chow down.

(2) When you're hanging with your dog, whether at the park, a walk, or just watching TV, make sure you have treats handy. Say your pup's name; the instant he or she looks at you, respond with "Good boy/girl" and toss a treat. What we're after here is the ability for you to always get your dog's attention - this week, you want to be your dog's universe. Before he does anything, he should look to you. Positive re-enforcement (and lots and lots of treats) are the way to make that happen.

(3) Every time you and your dog go through a doorway, you need to be in front. Whether you're going for your daily walk or are simply going from the kitchen to the living room, you should always be first. If he does manage to get through first, call him back (use a leash if necessary, even inside the house) and try again. This may seem silly or overly militant, but you are quite literally playing "follow the leader" with your pooch - and your pooch will get that.

(4) This step may be the tough part - just remind yourself: it's only for a week. Are you ready for this one? Your pup can't sleep with you. Dogs often assume "ownership" of the bed; it's where you are at your most vulnerable, and this is where your pup gets the opportunity to be in charge. Many people find that their dog is most possessive of them when they are in bed, so we'll diffuse that situation this week. If your dog is used to sleeping with you, set up a comfy dog bed beside your own. If he gets on your bed, say "No" firmly and tell him to get off (do not use "down," as this is the command typically given for lie down). If he won't get off the bed, physically remove him - gently, but firmly. Don't argue with him, simply make it happen. It's not a negotiation, it just is the way it needs to be. You may need to go through this a few times for the first couple of nights - don't back down, and don't feel guilty. I promise, you aren't hurting your dog's feelings, you aren't damaging him irreparably. You are setting the stage for great things. After the first couple of nights, your pooch will get the hint, and will likely only try to get on the bed occasionally. Each time, repeat the process and praise him when he gets on his own bed.

Follow these simple steps over the next week, and you'll be amazed at the progress you make. When the week is over, there are a few things you may want to keep in place: Continue having your pup sit for you before presenting his meal, and keep re-enforcing your leadership by only allowing him on the bed (or furniture) when he is invited. Remember to provide lots of encouragement, including treats, pets, and verbal praise, as this may be a confusing time for your pooch at first. But in the end it will be worth it, and you'll be more than ready to begin training next Tuesday, when we'll go over "sit" and "sit-stay," and talk about ways to keep your dog (and you) motivated when training gets a little stale. Until then, drop a line with your questions and thanks for reading!

EnvironMental Monday: Putting an End to Unwanted Chewing

I got my first dog as an adult when I was twenty-three. Moonshadow, as I soon named her, was six months old at the time - already lean, lanky, and full of life. Over time, she became one of those dogs people remember for years afterward: sweet, mellow, and fun-loving. For the first six months of our time together, however, our relationship was hardly ideal. In fact, there were many days when I genuinely debated sending my sweet Moon right back to the shelter where she'd come from.

The major issue? Chewing, hands down.

Before you can set up your personal paradise, in which you and your dog and your family and friends all peacefully cohabitate, there may be some obstacles. One of those obstacles is most definitely chewing. It's hard to make your place the ideal when you have no books lower than the fourth shelf on your bookcase, and all of your plants have to be suspended from the ceiling. Is it possible to have a great house and still have dogs? Absolutely. But it does take some work.

There are three common reasons dogs chew your stuff: Lack of exercise, separation anxiety, or - particularly in the case of teething puppies - simply because it feels good. In my girl Moon's case, it was a combination of all three things; I solved the problem by hiring a neighbor to come in during the afternoon to walk her, thus breaking up the day. In addition, we did a more rigorous walk in the mornings, and I set her up on the porch while I was at work, with all sorts of things that she was allowed to chew up and nothing that she wasn't.

The first thing you should do is determine which of these three issues is most likely to blame for your dog's chewing issues. If it's a lack of exercise, you need to prepare yourself for a harsh reality - dogs need to move. High energy dogs like terriers, especially young ones, may need a couple of long walks a day and a rigorous play session besides, while larger dogs or less active breeds may do just fine with a single long walk each day. Check out this Wednesday's blog for some ideas on how to make sure your pup is getting the exercise he or she needs, without either of you overdoing it. In the meantime, though, simply make a mental note as to whether your dog's chewing problems are related to exercise or some other problem.

Now that you've determined the root of your dog's problems, it's time to go about solving the issue. The first thing you need to know: You won't stop a dog who loves to chew, from chewing. So rather than trying to stop them from a natural behavior that is instantly gratifying, you need to find something that they love to chew more than your favorite shoes. There are a lot of alternatives out there. Those I have had the most success with are Kong toys stuffed with cheese or frozen peanut butter, marrow bones, and assorted stuffed toys. Provide a few alternatives, and give plenty of praise every time your pooch shows the slightest bit of interest in them.

The second thing you need to do is set your dog up for success. This means that, at least initially, you'll have to do a little puppy-proofing - they should have zero access to whatever you don't want eaten. If your dog is used to being crated, that's an easy solution. If he's not, you'll need to set up a space that's distinctly dog-friendly whenever you're out of sight. Provide plenty of chewy toys, lots of encouragement, and keep a close eye out whenever your pup is back in the great wide open.

Remember in all of this that accidents will invariably happen. If you find a shoe that's been chewed and your dog is nowhere in sight, don't bother any kind of reprimand. Dogs live in the moment - if you come up to them with shoe in hand and tell them they're a bad, bad dog, they will associate whatever they are doing in that instant with the reprimand. They will not, however, have the slightest idea why you're yelling at them and waving your shoe around. If you actually come upon your dog while chewing your shoe, go to them, gently remove the shoe, and then provide a firm "No. Bad dog." Screaming and, particularly, physically reprimanding your dog are counter-productive to training of any kind. Immediately after reprimanding your pooch, provide him with an acceptable chewing alternative and give lots of praise.

Try this approach, along with a longer, more rigorous walk in the morning before work, and you'll be amazed at how many shoes you're able to save. If you do find no change in the behavior, then you just may be looking at a pup with some severe separation anxiety. If that's the case, read next EnvironMental Monday's post, when I address the issue of canine separation anxiety and provide a few tips for dealing with the issue. As always, drop a line if you have any questions, and thanks for reading.

Training Tuesday: Discipline, Your Dog, and Your Role as Leader

The word "discipline" has gotten a bad rep in recent years, conjuring images of militant nuns or angry drill sergeants. However, discipline is also defined as an "activity, exercise, or regimen that develops or improves a skill," and "to bring to a state of order and obedience by training and control." When I talk about discipline, I'm talking not about punishment, but about creating order in your life through the consistent application of a particular method or practice. If you don't want your dog on the couch today, your dog shouldn't ever be on the couch. If you don't want your dog to beg for table scraps, then you should never be giving your pooch food while you are sitting at the table. Being a dog owner naturally requires a certain level of responsibility, but being a GOOD dog owner requires a willingness to assume the leadership role with confidence, clarity, and compassion. An over-emphasis on control with your dog can lead to behavioral problems, health issues, or may just plain milk the fun out of your relationship... But, a healthy attitude toward training and discipline often means the difference between a good dog and a great one.

So, how do you get started in this exciting new role as leader? In the coming weeks, I'll devote each Tuesday to a different topic related to discipline and your dog, including different aspects of obedience training, behavior modification, the fallacies of dominance theory, and whether or not you actually can teach an old dog new tricks (you can!). For now, though, do a quick analysis of a few aspects of your life with your pup. How often do you take her for a walk? Are you the one in control of the leash, or is she? Your job in the coming week is to determine the areas in which your dog (and you) need work. How well does she come when you call? Have you mastered the basics, like "sit" and "lie down"? Does all your training go out the window as soon as there's a distraction - a dog next door or a cat in the next county... Make an honest effort to evaluate just how much control you have in your relationship, and stay tuned for answers to how best to address any issues you may have. Thanks for reading, and be sure to drop me a line with any questions, at thedog_ma@yahoo.com.