Training Tuesday: The Importance of Individual Training in a Multi-Dog World

So, you've decided to populate your home with not just Dog, but Dawgz. My life with one dog was amazing - Moonshadow was my boon companion, my best friend, and I was pretty much her universe. Now, three years after sweet old Moon left this mortal coil, I am the proud keeper of two pups - Killian and Adia - from the same litter. I am no longer the center of anyone's universe. They love me, of course - I feed them, walk them, and give them lots of hugs and cuddles, what's not to love? However, my dynamic duo has been together since the womb, and that's a pretty powerful bond. Because they are both fairly well-mannered, it's easy enough to take both of them wherever we may roam, but I also do my best to give each pup some individual attention whenever possible. Why, you may ask? If they do well together, why bother separating them at all?

There are three primary reasons I have for working one-on-one with my pups. The first is that it strengthens their bond with me, in much the same way a parent's bond with human children is strengthened by spending quality time independent of siblings. Secondly, obedience training - particularly leash training and agility - is also much, much simpler working with one dog at a time. And finally, I want to avoid creating codependent chaos by making sure my pups know how to live without one another. Dogs are social animals; as such, they establish very strong bonds with the other beings in their world. If they aren't acclimated to time spent apart, it can be an incredibly stressful experience. So, here are a few tips for making time for each of your furry friends.

(1) Start early, start often. If you get two dogs at the same time, make a schedule right away that allows a fifteen minute block alone with each of them. This is very simple if you have a partner; hubby takes Pup #1 for a walk one way while you take Pup #2 in the opposite direction - you meet back fifteen minutes later, and switch off. Or, take a walk together in the morning with both dogs, and alternate between Pup #1 and Pup #2 in the evenings. If, however, you - like me - are a single owner of multiple dogs, you may need to get a little creative. For short training stints, your pup should be able to survive on his own, particularly if it becomes part of a regular routine. I find that fifteen minutes a day of individual training for each dog is more than adequate to keep us all in check.

(2) Expand your dogs' social circle. When I was at Clean Slate, I enrolled Adia in puppy classes. While we were gone, I would leave Killian in his room with a couple of the other dogs from the rescue - by the time we returned home in the evenings, he would be exhausted and not the least bit concerned that he'd been left behind. If you go to a local dog park or meet other pups in your travels, try to make friends with the owners. Make puppy play dates. Offer to watch their pooch for them, if they'll take one of yours for an afternoon. This frees you up for an individual class, or just a special one-on-one outing occasionally. It's also a great way to keep your dogs socialized and part of a larger, dog-friendly community.

(3) Play to your pup's strengths. Killian is a rallying fiend these days. Adie, on the other hand, despises heeling but would play frisbee until she dropped. There are so many classes, clubs, and activities for dogs these days, you should have no problem finding something that your pup will love. And what better way to build that one-on-one bond than by sharing an activity that fuels you both?

(4) At the end of the day, Integrate! Regardless of whether you walked Pup #1 for fifteen minutes and Pup #2 for thirty-two, whether Pup 1 is excelling at agility while Pup 2 is failing basic obedience... Whatever the circumstances might be, don't forget to enjoy your whole pack at the end of the day. One of my greatest joys is watching Killian and Adie roughhouse before bed, or curling up on the couch between the great woolly pair of them for a little light reading. Always appreciate the individual eccentricities of each of your pups, but don't forget to revel in the primal flair of belonging to a pack.

Training Tuesday: Socialization, Pit Bulls, and the Dogs All Around Us

If you've ever witnessed a dog fight, you know the feeling: the sense of helplessness and horror when fur flies and snarling bodies rocket toward one another. If you've witnessed a pit bull fight, that feeling is magnified a thousand times, as a dog aggressive pit bull is physically and mentally engineered to fight to the death. Regardless of how much you may love that bully face, as a pit bull owner it is imperative for your dog's safety and the safety of others that you understand the limitations of this breed. Pit bulls were bred to fight other dogs; this is a despicable but indisputable fact. With that in mind, it is not your job to teach your bully to love other dogs; your job is to teach him to tolerate the presence of other pups, and not to fixate.

Are all pit bulls dog-aggressive? Unequivocally no - I've worked with many pit bulls who love playing with other dogs. At Clean Slate, Dave's American Staffordshire mix Lou is present in almost all of the dog play groups, and is well-loved by every puppy who enters the building. I have seen that same gentle giant turn on his doggie housemates during heightened circumstances and inflict serious harm. The point? Lou continues to work as a supervised caretaker in many of the dog play groups, but is never, ever left alone with other dogs. Would I trust him with children? In a heartbeat. But there is a genetic trigger that pushes bully breeds when it comes to other dogs. So, is there a way to address that trigger, or are bully owners doomed to walk alone forever? Here are some tips for how to create a more dog-friendly sensibility in your pit bull.

(1) Start young. If you have a pit bull puppy, the key socialization period is up to twelve weeks. Expose your pup to countless positive interactions with people, as well as with dogs. If you have an opportunity to socialize your bully pup with other puppies, keep it calm and keep it positive. If your little guy is demonstrating dominating behavior like repeat attacks on a more submissive pup, humping, or ignoring his playmate's cues to settle down, it's time for a time-out. Don't punish, simply pull your bully out of the fray and give him some alone time. Reward calm behavior with treats, and keep your own tone gentle and low-key.

(2) NEVER, EVER PHYSICALLY DOMINATE YOUR PIT BULL! If you have a situation in which your bully is trying to dominate other pups, it is never, ever appropriate or helpful to force your dog down and hold him there (sometimes known as the "alpha roll"). Despite what some TV shows (Caesar Milan, anyone?) may lead you to believe, the benefit of the alpha roll has been completely disproved and in almost every case has been shown to be extremely detrimental for the dog. If your pooch is misbehaving in a group setting, your answer is clear: it's time to go. There is no need for (or benefit to) a physical display of dominance, as this does nothing but create negative associations with other dogs and with you.

(3) The leash is your friend! Pit bulls are notoriously difficult to read - hence their great success in the dog-fighting world. They give few cues as to when they will attack, which I suppose is an asset in the ring but frankly leaves you and I with a distinct disadvantage. For that reason, not only should your bully always be on-leash, but you should avoid areas where other dogs are typically off-leash. An unsuspecting pup at the dog park may come running up to your bully with no idea that they aren't the best of friends. Pit bulls are fast and strong, so one snap and that nasty little Chihuahua prancing around your bully's head could mean the end - for both dogs, because a fatal dog attack means that your pit bull will be put down.

(4) Try walking it out. If you have a pit bull who is on the fence about other dogs, try going for a walk with a fellow dog-guardian. The other dog should be of the opposite sex, and preferably spayed or neutered. With both dogs on leash and focused on the journey ahead, your bully can get acclimated to the presence of someone else without becoming fixated. Let the dogs sniff each other, be on the lookout for good signs like a relaxed posture or playbows, give plenty of praise and treats, and remember to always reward for good behavior.

(5) Dog aggression is chronic, not terminal. There is no cure-all for dog-to-dog aggression. If your bully is not friendly toward other pups, take comfort in knowing that you are not alone - in fact, most pit bulls have some issues with other dogs. Be patient and positive, and remember that safety is the number one priority: always keep your dog on leash on outings, never leave him alone with other dogs (or any animals), and reward him amply for calm behavior. If you follow these guidelines, your pit bull may not be the belle of the ball, but he will live a happy, safe life with you by his side.

Training Tuesday. The Command That Could Save Your Dog's Life: Stop!

It's a scenario every dog guardian dreads: You're on one side of the road, your pup is on the other, bounding toward you. Between you? A long stretch of highway carrying an even longer line of moving vehicles. You hold your breath, knowing you are powerless to stop what's about to happen.

Are you really powerless in that situation? Obviously, prevention is the most effective way to keep your dog from becoming one of the millions of animals killed each year by vehicles. But, no matter how vigilant you are, accidents do happen: your pup slips past a guest and bolts out the front door, jumps out of the car when you're refueling, snaps his leash or slips out of his collar... No matter what you do, there are ways that your pup can get loose. How do you stop him in his tracks, when the worst is about to happen?

With a single, simple, life-saving command: Stop! We'll begin by defining exactly what you want your dog to do when you issue this command, and then we'll move forward from there to teaching your dog what is expected.

For my pups, stop is actually a combination of three commands: Stop, sit, and wait for me to come to you. Before you begin teaching stop, you should have a steadfast sit - once that's been accomplished, you're ready for stop.

Start with a long or extendible leash, and only use the "stop" command when you know you can get results. With any command, repeating the word over and over gives your pup the idea that he only has to obey after you've said something a dozen times, when you're frantic. When you're out on a walk and your pup is ahead of you, say "Stop" firmly and use the leash to make him do exactly that (never pull or jerk your dog to get him to obey - merely get rid of the slack on the leash and hold.) When he's stopped, say "Good dog"; if he hasn't already, your pooch will likely then turn to look at you. Give the sit command and go to him with ample treats and praise. If he starts to get up before you get there, say "No" or "Uh uh" and make him sit again.
Repeat. And repeat again. Do so over and over again, being sure to give lots of praise when your pup gets it right.

Once your pooch has Stop down when he's moving away from you, it's time to stop him when he's coming toward you. With your dog at the end of a long leash, call him to you. After he takes a couple of steps, you take one step toward him with your hand raised and say "Stop!" firmly. Unlike other commands (like "come"), don't worry about making your voice attractive or welcoming. You want your posture, actions, and voice to give your dog pause - to stop him in his tracks, as it were. If he stops, say "Good dog" and make him sit. Go to him with treats and praise, and release.

If your dog keeps coming when you say stop, take another step forward and repeat the command with a little more force. Remember, don't say the word a dozen times - twice is plenty. If he still keeps a'comin', stop your pup physically with your hand out in a halt gesture once he reaches you, and make him sit. Try again, remembering to give plenty of praise on those blessed moments when he gets it right.

Stop should be a command you refresh often. Run through it a few times every day - in the house, on outings, or running around your (fenced) yard. You'll be impressed with how often it comes in handy, and amazed at your own peace of mind when your pup is on the loose.

Note: The stop command should never be used in place of prevention. Always keep your dog leashed or fenced in high-traffic areas or in situations where your pup could get in trouble. Even the best dogs out there aren't infallible - don't let a moment of weakness mean disaster for your best friend.

Training Tuesday. Using Treats As an Effective Training Tool

Recently, I've heard a few somewhat disturbing comments regarding the misconceptions of using food in dog training. Because I've been working with dogs for a while now, I think I just assumed that using food to reinforce good behavior was standard practice. No one really thinks it's "bribery" anymore, right? Or that you're somehow spoiling the dog by rewarding good behavior? Well... Sadly, that seems not to be the case. Here's an excerpt from a dog training website I stumbled upon recently: "Be forewarned, the words 'Positive Reinforcement, Luring and Operant Conditioning' are code for bribing with food." Keep in mind that these folks are APDT (Association of Pet Dog Trainers) members, seem to have a long history of dog training, and have an extensive website with lots and lots of information. Much of that information is misinformation, and I would be very curious to actually see what their methods are for getting the results they promise.

So, here are three common myths for folks opposed to so-called food-based training, and some tips for how you can avoid such pitfalls when you're working with your own pooch.

(1) My dog will only perform if I have treats.

This common idea demonstrates a misunderstanding of the basic premise of positive reinforcement training. On the first go-round when you're teaching your pup to sit - in other words, you are conveying the physical movement involved in sitting down - the treat should be at your dog's nose to "lure" him into position. As soon as he sits, he receives the treat, thus conveying that the word "Sit" means to settle on his haunches. The word now has meaning to him, and by performing that action he is rewarded. By your second lesson, you should start picking and choosing when the dog receives a food reward. If you're doing a round of three sits, give a tasty treat for the first good sit, none for the second, and one for the third. By now, you should not be showing the dog a treat before giving a command. Tell him "Sit," wait until he has done so, and then produce the treat from your pocket and give it to him.

(2) I am giving up my dominant position by rewarding him for good behavior.

The fact of the matter is that dogs respond best to consistency, affection, and clear boundaries. Think of it this way: You probably have a job of some kind, correct? And from that job you derive some kind of income. The equivalent for your pup is two square meals and a roof over his head; that's your pooch's base pay. Now, what happens to you when you get a bonus now and again, or a well-deserved pat on the back? These little extras make you that much more likely to perform well and enjoy the work you're doing. Do you have less respect for your boss after you've received accolades? Are you less likely to go the extra mile? It's no different for dogs. You can train your dog without those little extras, but studies have proven that it slows the learning process and decreases the level of enjoyment (and thus retainment) for the dog.

(3) My dog won't respect me if I use only positive reinforcement.

Positive reinforcement does not mean your dog never gets feedback when he does something wrong. Every trainer that I've ever heard of - even the ones who are all about positive reinforcement - understands that a dog must get some indication when he does something wrong, in order to avoid making the same mistake twice. For example, my pups Adia and Killian are required to sit and wait at the door until I give the "Let's go" command. When they do it properly, they aren't rewarded with food, but with the pleasure of hitting the pavement (and what's better to a cooped up pup than a walk on the mean streets?) When Adia gets a little too excited and won't sit, or Killian decides he's had enough and rushes the door, their "punishment" is to remove the thing they most want: the walk. I say "Unh-uh" and close the door, and we try again. It isn't stressful for them (or me), and by now they typically settle down after the second try. They respect me just fine, thank you very much, and - because our time together isn't about battling for status, we generally tend to have a blast together.

Whether or not you use treats is, of course, ultimately up to you. But just be aware that a great deal of research has been put into the subject, and most experts agree: a biscuit, triscuit, or tasty golden nugget makes training ever so much simpler for you, and more pleasurable for your pup. And isn't that what it's really all about?

Training Tuesday. Play Versus Stay: Making Training Fun

How can training be a fun experience for an under-exercised dog? That was the big question for me recently, and one I'll explore in this post. This past Sunday, the Knox County Humane Society - where I'm doing my obedience training practicum - was closed for cleaning, which meant I could work with as many dogs as I liked without running into volunteers or prospective adopters. The drawback? It also meant that none of these dogs had gotten a lick of exercise before I took them out to attempt teaching sits, stays, and other Fun and Exciting Lessons of the Day.

I began with a two-year-old beagle named Carson, who had absolutely no interest in doing anything but pacing, sniffing, and - naturally enough - eliminating. It only makes sense that kenneled dogs will have pent-up energy that must be released before they can focus on training. But what about our own pups, who hang by our side and snooze on the living room rug? How much exercise do they really need, before you can get to the down and dirty act of obedience training?

The answer depends, of course, on the type, condition, and age of your pooch. A six-month-old pit bull puppy should ideally have an opportunity to run, play fetch, and do a little quality (controlled) wrestling with his people before being expected to learn those boring tricks we humans like so much - things like heel, stay, and down. And since younger dogs are typically the ones with the most intensive training needs within the home, it falls on the human guardian to come up with a regiment that makes the transition from play time to class time seem natural and fun. So, what does that mean for you? Here are a couple of tips to make training more effective and less frustrating for both you and the pup.

(1) Pee first, learn later. Start your training time by getting elimination out of the way first. When you have a full bladder, you're not much of a math wizard, right? Well, the same is true for your pooch. Let him water the tulips and fertilize the daffodils before you attempt a focused training session.

(2) Play, play, play. When I'm walking my own dogs, I begin by taking them out back for potty, then a somewhat frenzied walk to the park where I can let them run and wrestle. While they're playing, we work on things like recall, fetch, stop, and sit - all of which can be done on the fly, with lots of treats and plenty of fun. Just because you're dog is playing doesn't mean learning stops; on the contrary, dogs are much more inclined to enjoy training and retain lessons when there's a game involved.

(3) Tired dogs make the best students. Once you've gotten that initial frenzy out and your pup's tongue is lolling near the pavement, you can work on issues that require a little more concentration. Heeling, extended sit- and down-stays, and recall with added distractions are all lessons that work best with a less stimulated dog. Keep them motivated with treats and lots of praise, and remember to keep that final phase of daily training relatively short for the best results.

Training your dog should never seem like work to the dog. Ideally, it shouldn't seem like work to you, either, but there will invariably be those cloudy days when you'd rather sit at home and watch the world go by. Your pooch, on the other hand, should not only perk up when the leash comes 'round, but should be excited about every aspect of training. If you can work with your pup's natural rhythms rather than fighting against his energy, curiosity, and enthusiasm, than you are well on your way to a well-trained, happy, and healthy canine companion.

Training Tuesday: The Almighty Sit

Now that you've spent the past week bonding with your pup, it's time to add some structure to your training sessions. If you have a dog who hasn't quite mastered sit, or is only a master when there are treats involved, this post will teach you how to make your pup a Sitting Fiend.

Unlike dancing, twirling, or standing on his hind legs, sitting is a natural position for your pooch. For this reason, it's a fairly simple thing to teach - once it's been taught, it's just a matter of repetition to make your dog's "sit" flawless. Begin by making sure you have plenty of training-sized treats (the size of a pea, or very slightly larger for big dogs). If your dog has never learned sit before, stand in front of him and show him your treat. If he jumps, turn away and wait for him to settle. Occasionally, dogs will automatically sit when they're confused - if that happens, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. If he's still standing looking baffled, say "Sit" and hold the treat just above his nose, then move the treat up and back, toward his tail. In order to keep his eye on the treat, he'll need to either sit or move. If he sits, give the treat immediately with lots of praise. Repeat the process five to ten times, until he is sitting as soon as you present the treat.

If your pooch is a dancer, - a pup who will spin around to visually track the treat rather than sit, even when sitting is the easier option - then you may need to be a little more hands-on. Never press down on your dog's backside - it can be very painful if there are undiagnosed hip issues, or it can simply make a skittish or dominant dog uncomfortable. Instead, hold the treat in front of his nose with one hand, while you reach behind the back knees and essentially sweep the legs to make the dog sit. As you are doing this, say "Sit" once, firmly; as soon as he is in the sitting position, give lots of praise and a treat. Try again without physically positioning your dog; after about five attempts, he should make the connection and begin sitting without your physical cues.

In order to reinforce the almighty "sit," give the command as frequently as possible. Whether you're out on a walk or lounging in your living room, take a moment out for a quick sit. Initially, it's best to have treats handy for this exercise; over the course of the next week, gradually wean your pup from the goodies by doing a three-sit session. On the first sit, give a treat; on the next two, mix it up a little by giving a treat only on the second or third try. In addition, make sure you always use the sit command before leashing or feeding your pup; he'll begin to associate sitting with all the best things in his life, and before long will readily sit when he sees something he wants.

Next week, we'll go over the sticky issue of teaching your pup to lie down - surprisingly, one of the most difficult commands to master. I'll also teach you some relaxation techniques and a new command to keep energized pups from driving you mad when you just want to spend a quiet evening at home. Until then, thanks for reading and drop a line with your questions.

Training Tuesday: How to Create a Bond That Will Last

The role of leader - or "pack leader" as some dog professionals like to call it - is a tricky concept for many. There is a somewhat ill-conceived theory out there that, for dogs, might equals right - you have to win your dog's respect (and love) by dominating him. While this may work in the wild, the reality is that by following this line of reasoning in your own home, you are setting a very dangerous precedent. Within the structure of the "pack," wild dogs are always on the lookout for an opportunity to assume the role the of pack leader. The current leader falls ill or is a little off in any way, and the next in line is immediately prepared to take over. Naturally, the last thing we want in our own lives is a pooch looking for signs of weakness so that he can stage a mini-revolt. In that scenario, the thing keeping your dog in line is not respect, but fear of retribution.

Now, make no mistake - you have the responsibility of assuming the leadership role. Dogs, like children, need (and want) someone to be in control; if you aren't, then they'll assume that role by default. But assuming that leadership by force is not only counterproductive, but is often downright dangerous. Moves like alpha downs (forcing a dog to lie down while the owner physically pins him, thus "proving" dominance), physical corrections, shock or prong collars... These things do not teach your dog the correct behavior - they teach him to be afraid of the wrong behavior and, more importantly, of you. Such methods breed resentment, and, if your dog does not strike out at you directly, he will in all likelihood either be fearful of humans, or actively aggressive toward them.

So, how do you establish the leadership role with your dog? For the next week, that's all you will work on - whether your dog is an old friend who's been with you for years, or is brand new to your home. It's an exercise that requires no training, but will require some vigilance on your part. At times, you may feel as though you're being too strict - don't worry, you can go back to the old ways (with some exciting new changes!) when the week is over.

Begin your week by stocking up on plenty of high-value treats: cheese or lean meats (if using sandwich meats, be sure to choose those with low sodium), cut into pea-sized pieces. I've also found that many dogs will respond to sliced apples, and homemade biscuits are invariably a big hit. Visit bullwrinkle.com for some super, all-natural recipes.

So... You have your treats. Here are the four things you need to do this week to establish (or strengthen) the foundation upon which to build a great training relationship:

(1) All food this week comes from you. If you have children, it's a great idea to repeat this exercise with them at some point, ensuring that every scrap of food your pup gets comes from your little ones. In the wild, great respect is given to those who provide sustenance. For now, though, you are the one setting every meal in front of your pup, and the one tossing him every treat. When feeding a meal, it's a good idea to first make your dog sit - even if just for a moment - before presenting the bowl and letting him chow down.

(2) When you're hanging with your dog, whether at the park, a walk, or just watching TV, make sure you have treats handy. Say your pup's name; the instant he or she looks at you, respond with "Good boy/girl" and toss a treat. What we're after here is the ability for you to always get your dog's attention - this week, you want to be your dog's universe. Before he does anything, he should look to you. Positive re-enforcement (and lots and lots of treats) are the way to make that happen.

(3) Every time you and your dog go through a doorway, you need to be in front. Whether you're going for your daily walk or are simply going from the kitchen to the living room, you should always be first. If he does manage to get through first, call him back (use a leash if necessary, even inside the house) and try again. This may seem silly or overly militant, but you are quite literally playing "follow the leader" with your pooch - and your pooch will get that.

(4) This step may be the tough part - just remind yourself: it's only for a week. Are you ready for this one? Your pup can't sleep with you. Dogs often assume "ownership" of the bed; it's where you are at your most vulnerable, and this is where your pup gets the opportunity to be in charge. Many people find that their dog is most possessive of them when they are in bed, so we'll diffuse that situation this week. If your dog is used to sleeping with you, set up a comfy dog bed beside your own. If he gets on your bed, say "No" firmly and tell him to get off (do not use "down," as this is the command typically given for lie down). If he won't get off the bed, physically remove him - gently, but firmly. Don't argue with him, simply make it happen. It's not a negotiation, it just is the way it needs to be. You may need to go through this a few times for the first couple of nights - don't back down, and don't feel guilty. I promise, you aren't hurting your dog's feelings, you aren't damaging him irreparably. You are setting the stage for great things. After the first couple of nights, your pooch will get the hint, and will likely only try to get on the bed occasionally. Each time, repeat the process and praise him when he gets on his own bed.

Follow these simple steps over the next week, and you'll be amazed at the progress you make. When the week is over, there are a few things you may want to keep in place: Continue having your pup sit for you before presenting his meal, and keep re-enforcing your leadership by only allowing him on the bed (or furniture) when he is invited. Remember to provide lots of encouragement, including treats, pets, and verbal praise, as this may be a confusing time for your pooch at first. But in the end it will be worth it, and you'll be more than ready to begin training next Tuesday, when we'll go over "sit" and "sit-stay," and talk about ways to keep your dog (and you) motivated when training gets a little stale. Until then, drop a line with your questions and thanks for reading!

Training Tuesday: Discipline, Your Dog, and Your Role as Leader

The word "discipline" has gotten a bad rep in recent years, conjuring images of militant nuns or angry drill sergeants. However, discipline is also defined as an "activity, exercise, or regimen that develops or improves a skill," and "to bring to a state of order and obedience by training and control." When I talk about discipline, I'm talking not about punishment, but about creating order in your life through the consistent application of a particular method or practice. If you don't want your dog on the couch today, your dog shouldn't ever be on the couch. If you don't want your dog to beg for table scraps, then you should never be giving your pooch food while you are sitting at the table. Being a dog owner naturally requires a certain level of responsibility, but being a GOOD dog owner requires a willingness to assume the leadership role with confidence, clarity, and compassion. An over-emphasis on control with your dog can lead to behavioral problems, health issues, or may just plain milk the fun out of your relationship... But, a healthy attitude toward training and discipline often means the difference between a good dog and a great one.

So, how do you get started in this exciting new role as leader? In the coming weeks, I'll devote each Tuesday to a different topic related to discipline and your dog, including different aspects of obedience training, behavior modification, the fallacies of dominance theory, and whether or not you actually can teach an old dog new tricks (you can!). For now, though, do a quick analysis of a few aspects of your life with your pup. How often do you take her for a walk? Are you the one in control of the leash, or is she? Your job in the coming week is to determine the areas in which your dog (and you) need work. How well does she come when you call? Have you mastered the basics, like "sit" and "lie down"? Does all your training go out the window as soon as there's a distraction - a dog next door or a cat in the next county... Make an honest effort to evaluate just how much control you have in your relationship, and stay tuned for answers to how best to address any issues you may have. Thanks for reading, and be sure to drop me a line with any questions, at thedog_ma@yahoo.com.